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California 14ers suggestions

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A suggest

Postby Sagecal » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:49 am

We will do Matterhorn in August when most snow has melted. The trip leader has done the route up the glacier before, but didn't get to the top. So, at least he has experience up the route. Believe me, safety is top priority.

I think Langley is the only 14er I am willing to do. I have some easier 13ers planned.



Try Mt Langley 14k and Mt Kawaeh, 13 k with spectacular view of heart of Sierra. Both are class one.... and it can take 6 days to do it both.
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Postby thexcat » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:23 pm

Tyndall is a good one. Banner peak highly recommended too, although only a 12er
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Postby Diggler » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:33 pm

If assurances of safety & ease are required, why plan a trip to the mountains to begin with? It's dangerous out there- people have died on Whitney, & I'd be surprised if it hasn't happened on White Mountain Peak! Better to just stay home & enjoy some good TV.

On the other hand, what's wrong with going for it, challenging yourself on a peak with question marks & turning around if you don't feel comfortable? :wink:

Batso had no idea what he was getting himself into when he made the first few moves off the ground onto El Cap...
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Diggler

Postby hgrapid » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:42 am

Diggler,

Isn't there a difference between typical mountain danger, and highly dangerous? So, if I said I wanted to do Mount Langley in late August, it is certainly dangerous. However, probably nowhere near as dangerous as Starlight or the Palisades at that time, or Williamson in June?

My belief is that there is always risk; however, it is foolish to climb way above your skill level. Thus, I am inquiring as to whether mountains such as Sill, Tyndall, and Split are reasonable for someone who has only climbed Longs Peak via a class 3 route. I hiked Whitney last summer and it was pretty easy skill-level wise. Simply an endurance hike. But, Split Mountain, Tyndall, and Sill are totally different endeavors.

So my question is: Which mountain would you recommend of the three to a moderately-skilled hiker. Which is the least difficult?
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Postby Marmaduke » Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:18 am

HG- I think your question is pretty straight forward and to the point. I think others are reading a whole lot into something that isn't there. Class 3 is your limit, I'm new here and haven't started yet on anything you have done or others. But again, seems your question doesn't imply you're looking to try something way above your abilities. And without a doubt, there are different levels of danger in anything. I became a very, very good skier. BUT I would not try most of the stuff I've seen in the Warren Miller films.
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Re: Diggler

Postby Diggler » Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:59 am

hgrapid wrote:Diggler,

Isn't there a difference between typical mountain danger, and highly dangerous? So, if I said I wanted to do Mount Langley in late August, it is certainly dangerous. However, probably nowhere near as dangerous as Starlight or the Palisades at that time, or Williamson in June?

My belief is that there is always risk; however, it is foolish to climb way above your skill level. Thus, I am inquiring as to whether mountains such as Sill, Tyndall, and Split are reasonable for someone who has only climbed Longs Peak via a class 3 route. I hiked Whitney last summer and it was pretty easy skill-level wise. Simply an endurance hike. But, Split Mountain, Tyndall, and Sill are totally different endeavors.

So my question is: Which mountain would you recommend of the three to a moderately-skilled hiker. Which is the least difficult?


Langley isn't any more dangerous than Whitney via its standard route, & it's beautiful near the Cottonwood Lakes. Split Mountain has one of the worst approaches you're likely to do, but the typical camping spot near Red (?) Lake is amazing; from there it's a longish scramble up loose talus to the saddle, then easy from there. Don't know how Tyndall is as rock- did it under snow, w/ crampons & axe- fun, steepest sections maybe 50 degrees or so. Sill via the standard way (L-shaped couloir) is considerably harder than the others mentioned; taking the 2nd class way (I've heard- haven't done it) is waaaaayyyy longer, with some challenging route-finding.

Good luck- hope this helps!
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Re: Diggler

Postby cp0915 » Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:52 pm

hgrapid wrote:...Split Mountain, Tyndall, and Sill are totally different endeavors.

So my question is: Which mountain would you recommend of the three to a moderately-skilled hiker. Which is the least difficult?


That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.
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Re: Diggler

Postby Bob Burd » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:41 pm

cp0915 wrote:That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.


Yes, totally concur.

hgrapid wrote:Split seems very dangerous, and there is no word on the summitpost site how dangerous the final few hundred yards to the summit are. They seem really nasty!


There's no word because there's nothing to it. The last 1,500ft up the north face is just a boulder climb - class 2. Where did you hear it was dangerous?
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Re: Diggler

Postby 96avs01 » Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:54 pm

Gary Schenk wrote:
Bob Burd wrote:
cp0915 wrote:That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.


Yes, totally concur.

hgrapid wrote:Split seems very dangerous, and there is no word on the summitpost site how dangerous the final few hundred yards to the summit are. They seem really nasty!


There's no word because there's nothing to it. The last 1,500ft up the north face is just a boulder climb - class 2. Where did you hear it was dangerous?


It will bore you to death!


That's why you go in winter and splitboard/ski it 8)
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Postby KathyW » Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:15 pm

tyler4588 wrote:Matterhorn Peak from Twin Lakes requires glacier travel skills, ice axe and crampons. You may want to take that into consideration before leading a hiking group up.


You don't always have to cross a glacier to get to Matterhorn Peak from Twin Lakes. It just depends.
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Postby Diggler » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:51 pm

While you need to know how to know how to walk on hard snow/ice with your crampons to do Matterhorn Peak, I think saying you need "glacier travel skills" is blowing it a bit out of proportion- it's not exactly Mt. Rainier. The biggest threat those crevasses pose is maybe getting your foot stuck in one & twisting an ankle.
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Re: Diggler

Postby Climber Dave » Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:30 pm

Gary Schenk wrote:
Bob Burd wrote:
cp0915 wrote:That's easy ~ Split. Then Tyndall, then Sill.


Yes, totally concur.

hgrapid wrote:Split seems very dangerous, and there is no word on the summitpost site how dangerous the final few hundred yards to the summit are. They seem really nasty!


There's no word because there's nothing to it. The last 1,500ft up the north face is just a boulder climb - class 2. Where did you hear it was dangerous?


It will bore you to death!



+ 1 :D
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Re: Matterhorn

Postby Ol Walsher » Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:26 am

hgrapid wrote:We will do Matterhorn in August when most snow has melted. The trip leader has done the route up the glacier before, but didn't get to the top. So, at least he has experience up the route. Believe me, safety is top priority.

I think Langley is the only 14er I am willing to do. I have some easier 13ers planned.


My Ol Buddy and I did Matterhorn in August.....no snow that I can remember.....it sucked though.....climbing through the sandy slog on the southeast slope. JMHO :D

I would do it with some snow pack next time; maybe early June.
Last edited by Ol Walsher on Wed Mar 24, 2010 3:33 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby tyler4588 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:51 am

Ooohh, seems I was just thinking of my personal experience. Haha, I can see how "glacier travel" would be a bit exaggerated. My bad! Great peak to do!
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