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RMNP Need Help With A Plan B For This Weekend! HELP.

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RMNP Need Help With A Plan B For This Weekend! HELP.

Postby Erik Beeler » Wed Mar 24, 2010 3:34 pm

Based on the comments in this thread http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=52386&sid=8ae6e2efa690bf89a63f3b1a8d862ce5 it appears we should be coming up with a Plan B. As we are headed out to CO TOMORROW at noon'ish we could use some help picking a new objective.

The plan was to climb the Shark's Tooth via the 5.4 route normally used as the descent and then climb the 5.7ish NE Ridge Route the following day. IF we can't get up there w/o exposing ourselves to avalanche danger (alternate approach route maybe?) then we need a Plan B.

Ideas should be no harder than the climbs we planned but don't have to be in RMNP as long as they are not a ton further.

One plan floated was Notch Top via http://www.summitpost.org/route/166074/sprial-route.html but I am not clear that there is lower avy danager here either.
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Postby brenta » Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:46 pm

The last two storms have brought a lot of snow. Besides, the last one dumped rather heavy, sticky snow on top of the lighter snow of last week.

An alternate approach to Sharkstooth would be on Sky Pond's side, but it's already tricky in summer. Besides, I have not done it, only seen that approach.

Nocthtop's Spiral Route: There is the meadow half-way up the route to contend with. It's steep and it will be loaded. Also, you would probably have to rappel, because the descent gully would be dangerous.

The conventional wisdom is to stick to ridges in these conditions. Maybe you could try Keyhole Ridge on Longs. It's 5.4-5.5 in summer. Normally, you'd come down the North Face, but now you may find it safer to just backtrack along the ridge. I imagine it would take one or two two-rope rappels to come down the headwall.

Or, you may decide for some winter-style ascents in Eldo or the Flatirons... Your best chance for dry rock in Colorado may be the South Platte. However, I heard the roads are kind of treacherous now.
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Postby Erik Beeler » Wed Mar 24, 2010 5:02 pm

Brenta you have been a great help. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
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