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Pik Somoni/Khan Tengri/Pobeda/Lenin

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Pik Somoni/Khan Tengri/Pobeda/Lenin

Postby Ski Mountaineer » Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:53 pm

Hi!

I might stroll around Central Asia in summer. In June I am busy with a particular project, but since I am in the area I am very interested in giving Pik Somoni/Korzhenevskoj, Khan Tengri or Pik Pobeda a shot, or Lenin (not normal route).

I cannot make commitments yet, so what I would like to know: Any SPers out there who will be there and are interested in taking another guy into their team on rather short notice, preferably with skis?

Cheers,
Peter
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Postby Archm » Sun May 02, 2010 9:11 pm

Hey,

Did you go to central Asia that summer ? Did you get around
to climbing any of those 7000ers? The pamir and the tien shan
look like they are well worth a visit ... any one with any
experience of the peaks and operators over there ?
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Postby Ski Mountaineer » Mon May 03, 2010 3:36 pm

Hey,

yes, I did go. Twice, in fact. In the meanwhile I have been to SW Pamirs (Wakhan), Pik Korzhenevsakya and Yazgulem Range (all in Tajikistan). Operators I dealt with MATVC - afor Korzhenevskaya that ís, the other peaks in Tajiksitan I organized myself with help of local people. MATVC is the only one in Tajikistan (for 7000m) anyways, the other companies just buy packages of them. They are operating OK given the circumstances in the country.

I would love to go back this year, particularly to Bartang and Yazgulem Range, the most memorable region for me - but due to lack of partner and availability of one for Tien Shan I dug out an old project and I am headed to Pik Pobeda. May well be my last trip to a commercial peak...then back to the obscure peaks in central Tajikistan next year (I hope). Some of the 6000m peaks in the regions are the real gems.

Cheers,
SM.
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Postby Archm » Mon May 03, 2010 8:29 pm

SM ,

Cool , good luck on pobeda , ill be waiting for the trip report! , It's a bloody hard climb from what I've read .

Im looking at maybe going to the tien shan / pamir, to try a first 7000m peak . I was thinking maybe of pik Korzhenevsakya? How did you get on ?
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Postby henrileveque » Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:07 am

Hello

Instead of doing Lenin peak, I plan to go on a trek by my own to the base camp of Khan Tengri. The access to Lenin peak is actually closed by any side (Osh, Tajik border) due to recent riots and heavy troubles in the area. Army are restricting the access, and blocked all the pass. This is why I change my goal to Inylchek. Is anyone is interested in join me, to make this trek to base camp and see what is possible to do upwards. I see in my topograhic map that a specific branch of the Southern Inylchek goes in "regular slopes" to an Altitude of 6700-6800 along the border of China. Some unamed peak of that altitude seems to be "easily" reachable. It is an upper branch of the Inylchek between the Mt. Voennikh Topografov (Military Topographer) (6,873 m) and Mt. Pogrebtskogo (6,527m). I have 30 years of alpinism and I have done in February Cerro Aconcagua in individual.
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Postby henrileveque » Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:08 am

I precise, it's urgent, I'm in Bishkek the 2nd July
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Postby radson » Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:24 pm

I'm looking at khan tengri for 2011 if anyone is interested.
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Postby radson » Wed Jul 07, 2010 8:04 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:
radson wrote:I'm looking at khan tengri for 2011 if anyone is interested.


I may be interested. My friend's brother was a guide in Tien Shan (Kazakhstan side) range and knows a lot about the area, even knew Boukreev. We are planning to attempt Khan Tengri or peak Korzhenevskoj, or both in either 2011 or 2012 (depends when my friend will get his US citizenship). KT is a tough one.


Cool, keep in touch mate
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Postby Archm » Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:32 pm

Congrats on your everest summit Radson, well done.

Khan tengri would be class, probably a bit out of my league tho, are you going independently or with a commercial group ?
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Postby radson » Tue Aug 17, 2010 5:38 am

Archm wrote:Congrats on your everest summit Radson, well done.

Khan tengri would be class, probably a bit out of my league tho, are you going independently or with a commercial group ?


Thanks Archm. I have no idea at this stage. It's just a mountain, that I have always wanted to climb. Will look more into it at start of 2011. Shall I keep you in the loop?
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Postby Archm » Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:51 pm

Yeah sure, but I'm not sure I have enough experience for it. I failed to summit on denali this June, and I can't afford to go back next year so was thinking about Tajikistan or krygystan next year, not sure about which peak but i'd like to have a crack off a 7000er ..........
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Postby Archm » Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:53 pm

Yeah sure, but I'm not sure I have enough experience for it. I failed to summit on denali this June, and I can't afford to go back next year so was thinking about Tajikistan or krygystan next year, not sure about which peak but i'd like to have a crack off a 7000er ..........
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Postby radson » Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:42 am

Archm wrote:Yeah sure, but I'm not sure I have enough experience for it. I failed to summit on denali this June, and I can't afford to go back next year so was thinking about Tajikistan or krygystan next year, not sure about which peak but i'd like to have a crack off a 7000er ..........


Hey, I have 'failed' on many mountains. I am of the opinion that we may become more experienced from failure than success.
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Postby Archm » Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:15 am

Let's hope so !
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