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Hard Shell or Soft Shell Jacket?-Can Only Buy One!

Post climbing gear-related questions, offer advice. For classifieds, please use that forum.
 

Postby Dane1 » Sat May 01, 2010 1:16 am

showlett wrote:What about this setup:

A Marmot Sun Bowl Gore-Tex hardshell for $119
A Mammut Hooded Winstopper softshell $50 (incl shipping from China)


While I have not done Shasta, I have done Rainier dozens of times by a dozen routes.

Only taken a down jacket once and that was in Nov. I wouldn't suggest any of my climbing partners or clients bring a down parka on Rainier, ever.

So imo nix the down jacket idea. Goretex? I don't generally climb in the rain..that said living in Seattle. It doesn't breath well enough for most climbing activity unless it is cold and even though I have used it for years I have now stopped using it almost all together.

Soft shells? The newest soft shells are expensive and work a majority of the time and then they don't. Anything but light rain is one of the "doesn't work" environments. But for cold and windy conditions they can be pretty good depending on the garment and quality of the soft shell.

The Patagonia R1 Hoody someone else mentioned is a must have imo. You can buy the same basic product and exactly the same material from Mountain Equipment Coop in Canada for $70.

In your place I would buy one good shell and it wouldn't be Goretex. Then a R1 Hoody and figure out what to layer over it out of the pilel/fleece garments you have now own.

Be worth your time I think to read the link I posted above on winter layers as well.
Last edited by Dane1 on Sat May 01, 2010 6:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby showlett » Sat May 01, 2010 6:22 am

Will do, thanks!
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Postby showlett » Thu May 13, 2010 2:50 am

Dane,

I was just reading in Outside Magazine about the CEO who took over at Eddie Bauer in '07 and turned the company back to its outdoor roots. They also sent a team to Everest. Based on your feedback about the jacket, I guess it's working! I'll check it out.
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Postby Snowball » Thu May 13, 2010 6:10 pm

showlett wrote:
A Mammut Hooded Winstopper softshell $50 (incl shipping from China)



$50?!? china ripoff. not genuine gear but prolly fine as a first pass.
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Postby jthomas » Fri May 14, 2010 5:22 pm

While I have not done Shasta, I have done Rainier dozens of times by a dozen routes.

Only taken a down jacket once and that was in Nov. I wouldn't suggest any of my climbing partners or clients bring a down parka on Rainier, ever.


Could you expand on this a little? The one time I was on top of Rainier was in July and it was pretty damn cold, around 0F as I recall. Why the blanket recommendation against a down parka?

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Postby TheOrglingLlama » Fri May 14, 2010 8:55 pm

There can be only one !

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