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Alpine climber

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Postby Luciano136 » Fri May 28, 2010 12:14 am

I'm actually confused on expedition vs. alpine style.

So, if I start from basecamp to the summit and back, it's alpine style? If I leave from basecamp, set up my tent halfway and continue to the summit and down the next day, is that expedition style?!

Also, isn't the hike to your basecamp part of the climb as well, thereby breaking with the definition of alpine style? Very confusing.
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Postby Lolli » Fri May 28, 2010 12:40 am

a) Expedition style - you need some sherpas to carry your back pack as well - you don't imagine you have to carry your stuff yourself?

b) of course not - it counts only from BC, because otherwise you cannot do it alpine style. That's transport.
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Postby Luciano136 » Fri May 28, 2010 12:49 am

Lolli wrote:a) Expedition style - you need some sherpas to carry your back pack as well - you don't imagine you have to carry your stuff yourself?

b) of course not - it counts only from BC, because otherwise you cannot do it alpine style. That's transport.


So, if you get to the summit and back from your BC without any help carrying stuff, it's basically alpine style?
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Postby Lolli » Fri May 28, 2010 12:59 am

Luciano136 wrote:
Lolli wrote:a) Expedition style - you need some sherpas to carry your back pack as well - you don't imagine you have to carry your stuff yourself?

b) of course not - it counts only from BC, because otherwise you cannot do it alpine style. That's transport.


So, if you get to the summit and back from your BC without any help carrying stuff, it's basically alpine style?


yes, but you cannot stay and sleep on the way. Keep walking, man.
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Postby Luciano136 » Fri May 28, 2010 1:04 am

Lolli wrote:
Luciano136 wrote:
Lolli wrote:a) Expedition style - you need some sherpas to carry your back pack as well - you don't imagine you have to carry your stuff yourself?

b) of course not - it counts only from BC, because otherwise you cannot do it alpine style. That's transport.


So, if you get to the summit and back from your BC without any help carrying stuff, it's basically alpine style?


yes, but you cannot stay and sleep on the way. Keep walking, man.


I hate sleeping on the way anyway. If I can do it in one push, I usually do :)
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Postby SoCalHiker » Fri May 28, 2010 1:32 am

Lolli wrote:
yes, but you cannot stay and sleep on the way. Keep walking, man.



Of course you can stay overnight and sleep during your alpine-stype ascent. How would you otherwise climb big mountains in alpine-style. It's just whether you carry all your gear yourself.
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Postby Luciano136 » Fri May 28, 2010 1:33 am

SoCalHiker wrote:
Lolli wrote:
yes, but you cannot stay and sleep on the way. Keep walking, man.



Of course you can stay overnight and sleep during your alpine-stype ascent. How would you otherwise climb big mountains in alpine-style. It's just whether you carry all your gear yourself.


See, and that's how I get confused :D
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Postby Lolli » Fri May 28, 2010 1:36 am

Luciano136 wrote:
SoCalHiker wrote:
Lolli wrote:
yes, but you cannot stay and sleep on the way. Keep walking, man.



Of course you can stay overnight and sleep during your alpine-stype ascent. How would you otherwise climb big mountains in alpine-style. It's just whether you carry all your gear yourself.


See, and that's how I get confused :D


Yes, but SoCalHiker talks about alpine-stype ascent. That must be different. You see?
:lol:
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Postby OJ Loenneker » Fri May 28, 2010 8:51 am

Lolli wrote:Thank you.

OJ Lönnåker, to talk about the same thing.



Sorry... Please do not make my Southern Danish name into a Swedish fuck up... :cry:
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Postby Lolli » Fri May 28, 2010 10:26 am

oh, sorry! sorry! I apologise profusely.
Danish variety: Lønneker

(It could've been Swedish too.)
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Postby Charles » Fri May 28, 2010 1:24 pm

The Chief wrote:You'd know if you were one....

Image & Image
Image
Image
Image
Image



NUFF SAID!

An alpinist is someone who climbs mountains in the alps...........
A mountaineer is somone who climbs mountains in the mountains........
A climber is someone who climbs........
A walker is someone who walks.........
A snooker player is someone who walks round with their hands in their pockets.....

you´ll know if you´re one! :wink:
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Postby simonov » Fri May 28, 2010 3:17 pm

Image
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Postby The Chief » Fri May 28, 2010 3:35 pm

charles wrote:An alpinist is someone who climbs mountains in the alps...........
you´ll know if you´re one! :wink:


Thank you Charles for reconfirming my post.

The Chief wrote:You'd know if you were one....


Hey, by the way Charles, are the original Comici pins still fixed on his route here...
Image

Or, Bonatti's on this fine line here...
Image

Or Cassin's on this Classic.....
Image

Most obviously you have climbed these routes in the Alps and would certainly know, correct?
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Postby Charles » Fri May 28, 2010 3:41 pm

The Chief wrote:
charles wrote:An alpinist is someone who climbs mountains in the alps...........
you´ll know if you´re one! :wink:


Thank you Charles for reconfirming my post.

The Chief wrote:You'd know if you were one....


Hey, by the way Charles, are the original Comici pins still fixed on his route here...
Image

Or, Bonatti's on this fine line here...
Image

Or Cassin's on this Classic.....
Image

Most obviously you have climbed these routes in the Alps and would certainly know, correct?

Unfortunately I haven´t - too hard for me. There are all sorts of grades Chief - I´m just a run of the mill alpinist - but a happy one non the less. I can respect the upper end of the sport without having to blow about it though. I view mountaineering in a more egalitarian way - get out there and so something is ok with me. But tell me, are the pins still in?
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Postby The Chief » Fri May 28, 2010 4:32 pm

BorutKantuser wrote:I haven't climbed these crowded beauties, but I'm sure one still finds some of Comici's pins on Cima Grande.
Badile is bolted as far as I heard.
What's the second pic?

The Super Couloir on the Tacul

And when I did Cassin's fine classic line on the Padile 30 some years ago, many of his original pins were still in place at some of the established belay anchor stations.

edit: corrections/additions
Last edited by The Chief on Fri May 28, 2010 4:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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