I was up there yesterday, no gear. I didn't like the looks of Old Army so I went over to New Army. Here's a shot of some people coming down, looks passable. I ended up going up the ridge to Cirque, so I didn't go up myself, but this looked like the only bit with snow.

I'm heading up on Monday and will post an update when I return.

We made it up NAP last Saturday with no snow problems. On the way to Langley we saw an older couple make the trek down into OAP. Apparently they felt it was safe enough to take. From walking along the top, it still looked a little sketch so we stuck with NAP on the way back down from the peak even though it required us climbing back uphill again.

Old Army Pass last saturday:



Didn't go up it - we were in the area to do the Fin but ended up bailing on that plan due to lack of motivation to slog through the sandy slopes, plus those clouds were building fast. Turned out to be a good choice - it was storming within an hour. Wandered up to CW Lake #6 instead. If interested in conditions, all the pics are here.

I went up NAP on 7/11 to Cirque Peak and OAP on 7/12 to Langley.

If you aren't careful its easy to get off course near the top of NAP and either have to traverse some farily steep exposed snow or do some class 3 scrambling. If you can stay on route, you should be able to by pass snow on NAP.

On OAP went straight up the middle because we wanted to get some snow climbing in. It gets much steeper than it looks from afar, maybe 45-50 degrees at its steepest point near the top. The snow was good and easy to climb, but the newbies in my group were very greatful that I brought a picket and a rope to give them a belay.

On the way down OAP we tried to take the normal old trail instead of going down the chute. The trail was blocked by about a 20 meter patch of snow near the tope that required an exposed traverse. I'm sure there are post-holes stomped in this now, so probably safe to cross. Other than that it shold be pretty clear down to the lakes, but again, it is easy to get off course and have to traverse more snow or scramble.