Has anyone been up Pinnacle Peak in the Gros Ventre Range? The Turiano book says its a 5.4 chimney and I was wondering if anyone has done it that might have some good insight. Is the rock solid or rotten, and is there any kind of anchor up there. It is a peak with not much traffic, but it is probably the only 5th class peak in the Gros Ventres. I have seen it from many angles and the summit plug look vertical all around. All of the stories I have heard are from a long time ago. I would like to hear any newer information, Thanks everyone !
The peak has seen very few ascents, perhaps no more than eight. There was an interesting summit register but a recent party took it. I climbed it alone about 25 years ago, when the sign-ins were the Buckingham party, David Love and others, me.
A friend and I returned last month and I found it greatly changed. The 'easy' route had collapsed and the gully/chimney was choked with debris. We ended up doing one long 'hardish' pitch to the summit area, and one rap on the way down. The rock is a joke, terribly rotten, but with care, climbable. It's a challenging out-of-the-way summit that's worth the effort.
What did you rap off of ? Are there still any slings up there? Were you able to get any good anchors in on the way up ? It is definitely an obscure peak and I am looking foward to getting up there. Thanks for your reply.
On August 7 a friend and I finally climbed Pinnacle Peak. The chimney is definitely rotten and there is a solid section for the crux. We were happy that we brought a rope and we did rap down the chimney. Our rap anchor was a suspect chockstone, but it did work and we did back it up with a hex in a nook below. The peak is a spectacular wilderness summit with a fairly long approach up Little Granite Canyon. It is a strange summit area with some flat areas and sheer walls dropping off everywhere. I've soloed many of the high Gros Ventre summits, but it was nice to have a rope and a partner for Pinnacle because it is such a different mountain for the area. With all of the graceful, appealing peaks in the area, Pinnacle is a dark, brooding chunk of loose rock that does not beckon a climber. Perhaps that is way I never even thought of attempting it until my friend was persistent and he said he has wanted to climb it for almost 30 years. It can be soloed, but one must use lots of caution. There was a sign on the trail about extra grizzly precautions because of a nearby elk carcass. A true wild mountain experience with not much human history being so close to the Tetons and Winds.