nartreb wrote:Just like on rock, all anchors should be multi-directional. If the leader falls with a piece in, the force on the belayer will be upward, and it will usually exceed his weight.
Upward pull on the belayer is not a big deal if the space above the belayer is free of obstacles and the belayer doesn't mind dangling in midair, separated from his tools, then lowering himself (and his unconscious partner)... yeah it's probably a big deal. Anchor yourself properly.
Of course you can allow a *small* amount of slack between the belayer and the downward component of the anchor, so the belayer's body weight gives a softer catch.
nartreb wrote:On the other hand, even a "one-way" ice anchor is not as catastrophic as a one-way rock anchor: screws are inherently multidirectional, (and a typical ice anchor equalizes at least two screws in either of two directions)* - the only problem is that the anchor webbing/cord acts as extra slack. If your body weight holds the fall, put in an extra screw (if you have one) below the anchor and tie the rope to that. If the fall pulled you above the anchor and you stayed there, no more slack to worry about, just tie off the rope then carefully lower yourself to your tools. If you're below the anchor with no screws, you'll have to get creative. You can probably afford to take a screw out of your anchor since it won't have to hold any more leader falls.
I don't know much about snow pickets. Personally I don't think I'd trust them to hold a vertical leader fall in the first place, so I wouldn't be using one in a situation where the belayer might get lifted much.
*On the third hand, imagine a three-screw anchor with one screw lower than the other two. That one will have the shortest webbing/cord to the anchor point, so it will bear all the force of an upward pull, unaided by the other two screws. If it blows it could create cracks that weaken the other two screws.
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