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proper rope length for a climb - no beta

Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.
 

Postby Dow Williams » Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:34 pm

It is hard to get hurt sport climbing because your rope was not long enough.....never seen a single bolt at an established "sport crag" break off yet. There are always plenty of folks like me who will clean off the bail tat. I have a tub full. My latest was this fine piece found just this week on this route. Completely introduced me to this company, perhaps some of you are aware of them already. One fine piece of equipment (I normally don't get to excited about screw gate carabiners). Pretty enthusiastic about their products in general.
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Postby rhyang » Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:06 pm

mrchad9 wrote:
rhyang wrote:As an engineer, I am sure you ask questions and think critically.

You'd be surprised how many engineers do not do that. Actually, as an engineer I'd think you perhaps wouldn't be surprised.


Can I interest you in some fatty llama steaks ? :mrgreen:
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Postby mrchad9 » Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:14 pm

rhyang wrote:
mrchad9 wrote:
rhyang wrote:As an engineer, I am sure you ask questions and think critically.

You'd be surprised how many engineers do not do that. Actually, as an engineer I'd think you perhaps wouldn't be surprised.


Can I interest you in some fatty llama steaks ? :mrgreen:

I don't really know what that means, but if you got 'em I'll eat 'em.
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Postby Day Hiker » Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:31 pm

Gary Schenk wrote:If the top rope is being setup by a lead climber, then just watch for the halfway mark on the rope.


Yeah, but you didn't say what to do in that case, if in fact the rope is too short. So here is what seems apparent to me, but please tell me if I'm forgetting something:

Climber finishes the pitch and clips into the anchor; belayer takes climber off belay; second rope is tied to first rope; belayer secures new belay just below the knot; climber pulls up slack and clips into bight; climber releases from anchor and is then lowered.

^ Did I fuck that up? (n00b)
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