Yeah...what ever. Looks like the same folks that are always putting in their whining two cents worth that take this internet shit way too serious.





Now for the serious news.... just got down from Mendel. No Ice nor anything in either "Ice Nine" nor in the "Right Side". Very disappointing indeed.


But we did end up putting up a 7 pitch 5.9 line just to the left of "Ice Nine. Will post a TR and then route page down the road.



God I forgot how much of a loose vertical choss pile that center north face is.

Will post more pic's later for all those out there that can see through the smoke and not take this all too seriously.



PS: HJMC/CRAIG PEER, I have it from a very reliable source(someone that has actually climbed with you) that when you encounter anything over modern C2, you either pound in a pin or drill a bolt. WTF is up with that dude!!!!!

I'm unfamiliar with these climbs but is there a route up that central buttress in the top picture?

-JR

Oh yeah, what Bob P. said up above.

The Chief wrote:Yeah...what ever. Looks like the same folks that are always putting in their whining two cents worth that take this internet shit way too serious.

Now for the serious news.... just got down from Mendel. No Ice nor anything in either "Ice Nine" nor in the "Right Side". Very disappointing indeed.

PS: HJMC/CRAIG PEER, I have it from a very reliable source(someone that has actually climbed with you) that when you encounter anything over modern C2, you either pound in a pin or drill a bolt. WTF is up with that dude!!!!!

and

PS: HJMC/CRAIG PEER, I have it from a very reliable source(someone that has actually climbed with you) that when you encounter anything over modern C2, you either pound in a pin or drill a bolt. WTF is up with that dude!!!!!

Don't know who your talking to, as there is only one person I climb with these days, and she's never talked to you, ever. That said, if it still has an A rating in the Supertopo guide, I'll tap a pin in ( or even hand place one ) if I damn well feel like it. I like pins.

Nice try though.

Mendel sure looks sad - no ice.

Oh ya Chief, pretty much the only bolts I've drilled in the last 25 years were to replace my old 1/4 inchers on North Dome ( and fill a few old bathook holes I drilled back in the '80's ) as a public service. Drilling is too much work.

HandjamMasterC wrote: That said, if it still has an A rating in the Supertopo guide, I'll tap a pin in ( or even hand place one ) if I damn well feel like it.

What is good for Craig Peer is just as good for the rest.

BTW... Since when has ST become the ethics guide for any climb???

Golden rule that is well known out there, if the route has gone clean, then it then becomes so. That was in fact the evolution that occurred in Zion, Arches, Moab Area etc.

I call that ST claim or any other GB as setting the standard as pure BS!

Local ethics should ALWAYS govern any climb, not any GB, period.




Let us remember, opinions are just like assholes... we all have one.

So you all out there that take this opinion shit all so seriously, remember, it is all an opinion.

Take it as such unless the facts take priority due to ones opinion being based on total ignorance of the facts. The reason for my ass buster post regarding "Crackers".

rwedgy wrote:You're putting an aid line up next to Shiela ? A 1 pitch aid line at that.

Facts take priority over an assumption that had absolutely no factual bases.... NONE!

I was setting the factual record straight.

If some here didn't like the style of delivery, well ya'll can get into a PC Group Hug and cry all together on the count of 3... ready....3!

No ice? Must be due to global warming

For sure I meant a "one pitch" aid line, not A1, but that's beside the point. It's in the book anyway.
The point is look how easily you can jump on somebody.....AND THEN brag about yourself for a few paragraphs. Every single time. Very predictable. Are you sure you aren't in your teens? Seriously. "Anyone been to Ice 9 ? Here's what I'm doing, look at me!! Please!!! " You really scream out for attention.
It seems most people here are pretty well based, asking for and giving information. Most.

Oh... I get it... Y'all miss rec.climbing, don't'cha?

(Cue the Lord Slime theme music.)

rwedgy wrote: Are you sure you aren't in your teens? ....It seems most people here are pretty well based, asking for and giving information. Most.

Come on up and share a rope with me. I guaranfkntee ya this "old man" will make you wish that you most certainly were in your "teens" in order to keep up.

Please do not lecture me on giving. Again, you are absolutely clueless and it is not good to make assumptions based ones internet persona. I aint at all like any "most" you want me to be like. I am just me and I like that way. Will remain to be so as long as I breath. If ya don't like it, ignore it! Thank you very much.

BTW: By the looks of your Profile, don't look like you have given a damn to this site other than lecturing me on petty BS and making assumptions. WTF is up with that hypocrisy crap!


***Gary, here is your Darwin shot as if Tuesday. The upper 2/3rds of the route is actually blue "Sierra Bullet" ice and requires crampons. Go here and explode the view to full size to see.

http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspac ... 646143.JPG

And yes, that is why we ascended and not descended. It was a fkn bomb haven on Tuesday and it was far safer to go up then attempt any descent anywhere on the NF. Worked out rather nicely though!

Anytime Gary.... always here to help on any Eastside Beta.

Really Chief ? Is this giving beta ?
"PS... 3.5 hour approach?? WTF? Were you attempting it in a wheel chair without wheels? "

From another one of your rants where the guy was just humbly asking for his gear back. You go on to say how you've climbed 6 times, blah, blah, blah. And of course the ubiquitous "my 30 years plus" in the mountains.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... 1107&tn=20

And the convenience rap anchors you installed on N Peak L. How many times to we get to hear about that "sevice" Is that A3 so it needed to be bolted? Should all routes then be equipped to make the more "convenient" ?

You don't have to rag on people to give beta. And you can give it without pounding your chest and giving your life story every time. Nothing more, nothing less.

rwedgy wrote:You don't have to rag on people to give beta. And you can give it without pounding your chest and giving your life story every time. Nothing more, nothing less.

Pretty much nothing as your advice is like a mosquito that snuck onto my ass and then started telling me to stop using Deet.

SWAT...all gone.

This is the internet dude, not reality.

You most definitely need a life if all you can do is search the web for cause to tell someone how to live and act the way you want them to on the net.

Post all ya want as I will not bother with your BS wants and needs any further, comprende amigo.

Bye Bye Troll.

PS Sport, I just happen to get a bigass thank you last Sunday at MMS by someone I have never met yet knows who I am, for that rap route on #1. Said it was great to able to do both #1 then rap and finish the day on #3. Hmmmmmmm, imagine that. Oh, and that aint the first thanks for the gig either.

Once again, your opinion is like your ass, you just happen to have one.....