kheegster wrote:I'm headed out to Switzerland next month for 10 days or so to do some alpinism, and I have a few questions:
1. What's the Swiss equivalent to the OHM in Chamonix?
2. I'm hoping to do my first Grade IV route that might require a bivy. Any suggestions for routes at the AD/D- level?
3. Is AAC's Global Rescue thing the best insurance option for a US-based climber, or does the Swiss taxpayer foot the rescue bill ?
4. Any suggestions for a good introductory AD+/D- north face route?
kheegster wrote:Thanks Moni. Can you some suggest some good lower-altitude routes to think about in case of bad conditions?
The REGA+MedJet thing seems comparable to Global Rescue ($160/2 weeks) for the short time I'll be there, so I think that's what I'll get.
mvs wrote:Hi Moni glad to see you guys are on the continent! Seems to me the northern alps have been in poor condition. Over in Munich we had a sunny weekend, but a trip to the Stubai revealed fresh snow above 3000 meters. I'm sure there is more now after 5 days of rain in town.
However the Dolomites seem to have been having a great season. I had a good week there in mid-July, and am thinking of heading down for a day trip tomorrow thanks to consistently sunnier forecasts than up north. But it should be better here too, modulo some snow/wet in places you might want to climb.
kheegster wrote:Thanks for all the replies and concerns.
I'm not going out there hell-bent on any particular route. Me and my partner are making a list of 10+ routes varying in difficulty, altitude and region that we might try depending on conditions, and researching these routes beforehand. It'll be great to bag the Matterhorn or Eiger but I'll go out there with an open mind.
Regarding the difficulty, I've seen several routes in the US like the Upper Exum on the Grand and East Butt on Whitney rated as AD. These routes are within my ability, which is why I'm hoping to push into D- territory if things go well and conditions are good. Granted the mountains in the Alps are bigger than anything in the continental US as a few of you have said, but I thought that the length of a route is included in the French grades and also separately in the commitment rating. Would a Swiss route with a commitment rating of III be considerably longer than the Whitney East Butt (supposedly III AD 5a)? I would assume the major difference is that things would get more serious if the weather goes bad.
I'm usually too much of a coward to get in over my head and I won't start on a climb if conditions and weather aren't optimal. As for me asking about rescue insurance, I'm not planning on getting sick either but I'll be getting travel medical insurance while I'm out there... it's just that way I do things.
p.s. if you guys are worried on the basis of my SP profile, that's a few years out of date...
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