Middle Palisade Summit Register Can Lost

by **MoapaPk** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:04 pm

When the SP worth estimates came out (obtained by on-line estimators), I checked another outdoor site for comparison. That other site was shown to have similar worth; the other site accepts advertising, and is also pay-for-use for most information. In fact, I know the net yearly income of that other site -- when one subtracts operating expenses (including business licenses and tax) -- is about 5% of the estimated "worth."

Given that the majority of us are using an ad-blocker, what do you think the click-through income is for SP? If the founders make any profit from this, more power to 'em. They don't charge us, and the people who complain the most about free use of our hard work usually contribute the least.

But there are good reasons for becoming an elf:
1) Speaking engagements gratuities, due to high community esteem;
2) The huge REI elf-membership refunds;
3) Unlimited supplies of Ketracel-white.

by **Mescalito345** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 3:10 am

Here's a question for those of you who have climbed Middle Palisade recently. Which of the following routes did you take? Thanks.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/10614/150514/two-chutes-are-identified.html

by **KathyW** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 2:03 pm

We did what Doug suggests is the easiest route this weekend - a short, and well worn, traverse from where we got off the glacier into the chute and and then straight up until near the summit ridge - You turn left and traverse just below the summit ridge for a short distance to get to the summit. It's a jump across now to get on/off the glacier, but this weekend it was pretty easy even for a short person.

There was someone above us knocking rocks down like there were any climbers below him when we were in the chute - it was sort of like dodgeball for a while.

Edits galore because of typos and left out words - my fingers and brain don't always work together.

by **MoapaPk** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:36 pm

KathyW wrote:We did what Doug suggests is the easiest route this weekend - a short, and well worn, traverse from where we got off the glacier into the chute and and then straight up until near the summit ridge - You turn left and traverse just below the summit ridge for a short distance to get the summit if you. It's a jump across now to get on/off the glacier, but this weekend it was pretty easy even for a short person.

There was someone above us knocking rocks down like were weren't below him today - it was sort of like dodge ball for a while.

Good on ya! As I said, we didn't bring axes, but did bring helmets! There were several parties above us as we descended, and it was a bit frightening.

by **MoapaPk** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:59 pm

I used Bob Burd's info for the red-line route, and found it good, and also took the red-band route to avoid the "bergschrund." We climbed on the sides of the gully to avoid the loose rock, preferring minor class 4 to the possibility of killing people who might be below.

by **Michael Graupe** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:44 pm

Use2bSquishy wrote:
Mescalito345 wrote:Here's a question for those of you who have climbed Middle Palisade recently. Which of the following routes did you take? Thanks.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/10614/150514/two-chutes-are-identified.html

That picture is a fine example of piss poor beta that will get someone killed...It is inaccurate, not from the correct angle

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this picture. It is just pointing out an alternative route how to avoid the potential moat. Yes, it is a different angle, but if you can't correlate the features from the photo to what you are seeing on your approach, or need a lengthy step by step guide how to find your way up the face, you need to go elsewhere and practice some route finding skills.

by **kevin trieu** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:00 pm

Michael Graupe wrote:
Use2bSquishy wrote:
Mescalito345 wrote:Here's a question for those of you who have climbed Middle Palisade recently. Which of the following routes did you take? Thanks.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/10614/150514/two-chutes-are-identified.html

That picture is a fine example of piss poor beta that will get someone killed...It is inaccurate, not from the correct angle

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this picture. It is just pointing out an alternative route how to avoid the potential moat. Yes, it is a different angle, but if you can't correlate the features from the photo to what you are seeing on your approach, or need a lengthy step by step guide how to find your way up the face, you need to go elsewhere and practice some route finding skills.

I've done both of those routes and found them to be accurate.

by **Diggler** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:18 pm

Use2bSquishy wrote:
Mescalito345 wrote:Here's a question for those of you who have climbed Middle Palisade recently. Which of the following routes did you take? Thanks.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/10614/150514/two-chutes-are-identified.html

That picture is a fine example of piss poor beta that will get someone killed...It is inaccurate, not from the correct angle and if I were to describe the route using that photo it would be accompanied by more words and corrections than you would care to read...Everyone wants to hold up SP's beta as the best around and the best thing about this website, I beg to differ after using it as a noob for years...1000pks might as well have drawn that, from foggy 20 plus year old memories...You'd find better beta in my TR, and it was not written for that purpose...

Here's some contrast for you to ponder...(although slightly incorrect as well, the bottom half of our route was class 4, the class 3 is to the climbers right of our route in another chute):

If your planning on doing this route, expect class 4, it's too easy to end up in class 4 terrain anywhere on the route, there's a high chance you will need to surmount class 4 moves based on the difficult route finding. Plan on hours of class 3 and above terrain. The guide books are not very helpful and some are just dead wrong (like sp's photo), even secor has errors...BUT, I can guarantee Norman Clyde and many others reading this will say it's pretty easy...it's all relative...

There is so much misinformation out there from shady characters, on the web as well as those who publish guidebooks. That is why I will only do a route if it has the official SuperTopo stamp of approval.

by **Mescalito345** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 2:19 pm

There's now a summit register on Middle Palisade. Thanks for the information about gear and routes. We brought along helmets and ice axes, but no crampons. The glacier traverse was pretty easy. Here are some photos:

http://pkuroda.smugmug.com/Landscapes/Middle-Palisade-August-21-23/13470898_Fttup#980910285_4nRrP

by **ARosenthal** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 8:30 pm

Mescalito345 wrote:There's now a summit register on Middle Palisade.

Yay! All's well that ends well

by **QITNL** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:44 am

Awesome. Nice shots.

by **KathyW** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:09 pm

I believe it was Kurt Wedberg who found the other part of the metal summit register container at Finger Lake and placed it on the summit on August 16th; so the story ends.

Middle Palisade Summit Register Can Lost

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