Since I was a kid I was told I was "double jointed". With my fingers I can hold them straight (joints locked straight) and and flex just my last knuckle (so my finger tips are pointing basically towards the ground). For climbing this makes about a perfect open handed hook, but it feels REALLY weak. Should I work on making this stronger or should I concentrate on keeping a little bend in all of my knuckles?

I know I don't really have extra joints by the way....

Thanks in advance.

Isn't that cheating?

I'll be surprised if you get any authoritative answers to that question here on SP. Best to speak with your doctor, or maybe a PT. You could also try experimenting; Start with putting only a little weight on it and work your way up. See how it feels...

The fact that it feels really weak is a good clue.

Something else to consider. When I showed up with shatterred little finger metatarsals in both hands (not a climbing injury, just pulling stupid hard on something,) the hand specialist explained to me that this type of injury is almost unique to climbers. We learn to over-ride our “tendon sensor reflex.”

He explained that a normal person pulling on something will reflexively let go when tendons or bones near their breaking point. Climbers, on the other hand, learn to push past this reflex to avoid falling. Apparently fear of falling trumps risk of hand injury. And my experience indicates that once we learn to push past the safety margin in hand strength when climbing, we will do the same in day to day life as I did.

Also, I think that other body parts are subject to injury when climbing for the same reason, that is the desire to not fall off. Shoulders and elbows come to mind.

Regarding the fingers and forearms, Google "golgi tendon organs" for more info...

garythenuke wrote: With my fingers I can hold them straight (joints locked straight) and and flex just my last knuckle (so my finger tips are pointing basically towards the ground).......... should I concentrate on keeping a little bend in all of my knuckles?

Thanks in advance.

Wow, you can make your fingers go straight!

I can't make mine do that at all.....

they just sort of curl into hooks.

keep climbing and all flexibility in your hands will go away.

GK