by Autoxfil » Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:27 pm
Here's my take on footwear:
Getting shoes and boots to fit right is a bear. The human foot varies quite a bit in shape from person to person, even between people with the same shoe size. So you have to try on several models and brands before you find that magic slipper. Take a trip to an independent dealer like Mammoth Mountaineering Supply (obviously a bit far, but it's a fun place to visit). I'm sure there are plenty of good stores near climbing areas. Ask around in the CA forum.
Fit is the most important thing. You can live without the latest Vibram sole compound or cool lacing system, but bad fit will make you miserable.
Ankle support: I think it's bunk. I used to think I needed ankle support, but I have discovered what is really important is a good heel fit. If you roll your ankle over, no amount of leather and nylon will keep it from going over and getting hurt. A heel cup that fits correctly will keep your ankle upright to begin with, even on a low-cut shoe. Also, with a higher-top, stiffer boot (AKA, one with "ankle support"), you need to match the flex of the upper with the natural flex of your foot. This adds another dimension to the fitting process and makes it even harder.
I started with hikers and have tried all sorts of boots and shoes. Right now the only reason I wear a high-top boot is for nasty muck, snow, cold, or when there's rough talus/scree slopes and it's likely I'll get banged up from sliding and falling rock. Even then, low gaiters provide decent protection.
At the moment I have:
Five Ten Guide Tennies for 3rd and 4th class routes without huge amounts of hiking (<10 miles or so). These are great, and I suggest you check out the LaSportiva Ganda (used to be called the Gandalf) and Scarpa Quest as well, since they are three very different fits.
LaSportiva Raptors. These are beefy trail-running shoes, almost a light hiker, with sticky rubber soles. These are great for East-Coast hiking, which is a mixture of dirt, mud, roots, and rocks. They scramble pretty well, but I prefer a real approach shoe for 4th class and easy 5th class. They hike very well, but I haven't done a really long trip in them yet.
Asolo Fugitives. Beefy, classic hiking boots. They edge well and so scramble OK, but are heavy and imprecise and the soles aren't grippy. I have pretty much quit using them except for cold or very muddy hikes, or for aid climbing.
I also don't like Gore-Tex in my footwear unless I know I'll be fording lots of streams or hiking the snow. If it's much above freezing I just sweat and soak them anyway, so I like leather coated with Nikwax (Guide Tennies) when it might be damp, or just mesh that dries quickly (Raptor), and I avoid stepping in deep water.