Outstanding work to rhyang and shortimer, respectively.

And damn shorttimer, that's the way to leverage short time!

DMT

At 59 I am pretty damn sure that I am the oldest climber ever on the B&Y.

Andrew was incredibly impressive. He floated all of the pitches and did the second one in 25 minutes where it usually takes people at least 45. It sure is great having that strong of a partner! The only BAD moment came when he put me on belay on the 4th pitch and asked me to please 'Don't fall'. 3 crappy tcu's is not my idea of a belay.

That might be an interesting Taco question - oldest to climb BY... mind if I ask it?

DMT

ShortTimer wrote:At 59 I am pretty damn sure that I am the oldest climber ever on the B&Y.

Nice! Congrats on that one. Not surprised that it's harder than expected either. You figure there has to be a reason (apart from the lack of pro) why it's seen relatively few ascents. BITD, when hitchhiking in the Meadows, Bachar stopped and gave me a ride a couple of times and he always claimed it was only .10d.

fatdad wrote:

ShortTimer wrote:At 59 I am pretty damn sure that I am the oldest climber ever on the B&Y.

Nice! Congrats on that one. Not surprised that it's harder than expected either. You figure there has to be a reason (apart from the lack of pro) why it's seen relatively few ascents. BITD, when hitchhiking in the Meadows, Bachar stopped and gave me a ride a couple of times and he always claimed it was only .10d.

My partner thought that the first pitch (rated 11c) was as hard as Skeletor on Hammer Dome and it is considered a hard 11d. I thought 11c was a good rating. The second pitch probably is 10d, almost every move. The 3rd, 4th and 5th pitches were also quite sustained and at or above their ratings for most of the way.

rpc wrote:without fail, everytime I prespray, I fail.

Amen.

Congrats Jan!

rhyang wrote:



I have a pretty poor record at predicting the future, like most human beings. But I do want to get on the North Arete of this thing -



And I want to finally complete this traverse -



North Arete on this one is also on my list -



I've been shut down twice on attempts to do this one -

As of this weekend, I've managed to tick off all these goals Now to enjoy some serious llama action

Rob, how was the N. arete of Matterhorn? Did you manage to stay on route?

It was actually a lot of fun, once we got past the first couple pitches. I did manage to get off route on pitch 4 and ended up at the base of the Double Dihedral (perhaps not entirely unintentional ) but my partner led back around on the next pitch to the left of the arete to the correct corner, and I got to lead the final pitch, which was a blast.

I posted a trip report on supertopo if you're interested in more details & pics.

rhyang wrote:It was actually a lot of fun, once we got past the first couple pitches. I did manage to get off route on pitch 4 and ended up at the base of the Double Dihedral (perhaps not entirely unintentional ) but my partner led back around on the next pitch to the left of the arete to the correct corner, and I got to lead the final pitch, which was a blast.

I posted a trip report on supertopo if you're interested in more details & pics.

I'll check it out. We did the same damned thing, though - only decided to finish up on the DD (which was a damned cool route, if a little sustained at the end). Sounds like you had a great climb.

For no logical reason that I can think of, I want to see if I can get all the way up on the Wheeler Crest by way of Scheelite Canyon, and not use any equipment.

I was trading e-messages with Lisae about next weekend. She is thinking about getting back on lead. Yeah, go Lisa !

For those of you who are not aware, she has been recovering from a total hip replacement and breast cancer, if that wasn't enough. I hope everyone will wish her well on her way back to being a ropegun !

Getting out with Short in 2 hours.


The Nipple Arete 5.11a ..... he is going to lead it, I know I can do all the moves, in one go, if I try hard.

It's good to have goals.

Rob good going.

Lisae.... have fun. Keep climbing.