clemenceau icefield...mt shackleton

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lelf

 
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clemenceau icefield...mt shackleton

by lelf » Fri Oct 08, 2010 4:52 am

Hey !

anyone got data about mt shackleton north face ? I just discovered this mountain in a book i bought (11000er of the canadian rockies) but there is no info...just an amazing picture that makes me wana climb it really bad !!! I know the acces is trough the columbia icefield or flying in, but thats it...by the way how much would be a fly in-fly out trip on the icefield ? let say i stay there for a couple days to climd shackleton, clemencau and tusk ?

thanks !

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Bill Kerr

 
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Re: clemenceau icefield...mt shackleton

by Bill Kerr » Fri Oct 08, 2010 10:02 pm

Might want to try Bivouac or clubtread as I know there are trip reports on Clemenceau there.
Alpenglow Aviation from Golden fly people in if the conditions are right - other wise have to go helicopter which is more bucks. Cost would depend on number of people.

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Bill Kerr

 
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Re: clemenceau icefield...mt shackleton

by Bill Kerr » Sat Oct 09, 2010 8:52 pm

Out of curiosity I checked and North Face Route description from the Rocky Mtns of Canada - North - out of print
FA - aug 1971 - route is just right of rock buttress on center summit. Reached by traversing from Shackleton-Irvine col or by Duplicate-Tusk icefall. Route is 400 m of 55 - 60 degree water ice - fine climb. III or IV
AAJ 46-140. Earlier in the summer this would probably be more snow than ice.
If you were in there to do Clemenceau, Tsar and Tusk and you had time then it would be an interesting route to do.
Note that the Lawrence Grassi hut has been torn down - see updates on Bill Corbetts site.

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Fred Spicker

 
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Re: clemenceau icefield...mt shackleton

by Fred Spicker » Sat Oct 09, 2010 11:43 pm


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Steve Larson

 
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Re: clemenceau icefield...mt shackleton

by Steve Larson » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:53 am

lelf wrote:...by the way how much would be a fly in-fly out trip on the icefield ?


I got a quote (three, actually) two years ago for over $3,000. Different area, but about the same kind of transport. If you can piggyback on other flights you can save money, but you don't get to choose when you go.

lelf wrote:let say i stay there for a couple days to climd shackleton, clemencau and tusk ?


Couple of days? You'd be lucky climb anything at all in a couple days. Better plan on being there a week or more, and spending time watching it rain/snow. You'd probably get one summit, more would be a bonus.


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