winter ascent resources

by **Vinny** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 10:58 pm

Based in Everett and keen to explore my backyard summits more.
I've been mainly mountain biking and hiking with my kids since I moved here.

I am super stoked after seeing Vesper and headlee pass area on sunday to do some ascents this winter - ski/snow/ice and combos thereof.
which guidebooks would you recommend for some winter ascents in cascades?
or is there a ski tour book that covers local peaks well?

Does the 100 WA peaks book discuss winter access at all or assume summer?
I have only green Beckey (which is what it is) and the first selected climbs guide for mountains.

by **1000Pks** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 11:05 pm

Here's something to start with:

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&expIds=25228,26637,27050,27356,27360,27446&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=winter+ascents+north+cascades&cp=29&pf=p&sclient=psy&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=winter+ascents+north+cascades&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=6e8733203d1b4e27

I've got an old ski tour book, for WA, but no doubt outdated. Few peaks if any, it heavily warns of avy hazard. Mostly from what I hear you'll be doing nothing, I would go up there but I don't have time or money to be sitting in bars.

by **PellucidWombat** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 11:47 pm

Steph Abegg gets out a lot in Washington in the winter, and she's very familiar with the Cascade range in general. You should ask her about winter access and recommendations.

Your biggest problem in getting out will probably be timing it with good weather. Avalanche danger, while it shouldn't be minimized, should be much more tame than doing any winter outings in continental ranges such as the Rockies in the U.S. or Canada since the N Cascades typically have a maritime snowpack.

by **Alasdair** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:08 am

You will be able to get out plenty here if you live here. There are tons of peaks to climb in the winter. You do need to be a little careful about the avalanche danger but you have to do that anywhere, and the snowpack in the cascades is usually more stable than anywhere else in the country. There is not a lot of ice to talk about since it is usually buried, or drippy, wet and scary. Have a look at the tooth, chair peak, and eldorado peak as starter winter climbs They all have easyish access most of the winter and make for pretty fun outings. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I do recommend you take the time to take an avalanche course. Take a real one not one of the local shop sponsored courses. Look for an AIARE course.

http://aai.cc/ProgramDetail/avalanche1/

by **ExcitableBoy** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 5:42 am

The Nelson/Potterfield Select guides have a number of good suggestions for winter routes. We can expect sometime in the (hopefully) near future a guidebook dedicated to winter alpine climbs.

by **ExcitableBoy** » Sat Nov 13, 2010 3:25 pm

Here is a list that I compiled of winter climbs that have been done:

Cascades Winter Alpine Climbs

Colfax Peak
Polish Route
Cosley-Houston Route

West Twin Sister
West Ridge

Mt Shuksan
North Face
NW Couloir

Silver Star Mountain
West Face Central Couloir

South Early Winter Spire
South West Couloir

North Early Winter Spire
Early Winters Couloir (East Face)

Cutthroat Peak
East Face

Greybeard Peak
North Face

Pyramid Peak
It ain’t Over

Colonial Peak
Watusi Rodeo

Eldorado Peak
NW Ice Couloir

Davis Peak
NW Face Couloir http://www.ademiller.com/climbing/galle ... /index.htm

Johannesberg Peak
NE Buttress

Mixup Peak
West Face Couloir

Dragontail Peak
NE Couloir http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=853017
Triple Couloirs
Direct North Face
Colchuck Peak
NE Couloir
North Ridge Couloir

Argonaut Peak
NE Couloir

Mt Stuart
Stuart Glacier Couloir
NW Face http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=681501

Big Four
North Face (various)

Hall Peak
North Face

Three Fingers
North Peak NE Face http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=644072

Mt Snoqualmie
NY Gulley
Pineapple Express http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=863820

Chair Peak
East Face
NE Buttress
North Face

Bryant Peak
North Face

The Tooth
NE Slab
East Face

Abiel Peak
North Face (several)

Mt Kent
North Face (several) http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=868676

Mt Index
North Face
Eve Dearborne Memorial Route
Murphy’s Law

Middle Index
North Face

Lane Peak
The Zipper
The Fly

Pinnacle Peak (Tatoosh Range)
North Ridge

Mt Hood
North Face (Two options)
Black Spider
Reid Glacier Headwall

Illumination Rock
(Multiple routes)

Mt. Outram -
1. Ghost Passenger III WI3

Mt. Brice - Graveyard Shift IV AI3
Twin Needles - Thread of Ice III - Snow

Chiwawa Mountain - Intravenous IV WI4 M6

Silver Star Mountain - West Face Central Couloir III AI2 M4

Pyramid Mountain - NW Face 'It Aint Over Mother Fuckers' IV M4
Summit Chief - Alpine Chicken IV AI4+ 5.8 RSummit Chief - North Face III AI3

Three Fingers - NE Face IV WI4+ M3

Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellog Memorial Route IV WI6 AO
Hall Peak - NW Face III 5.6 WI3
White Chuck - East Face Couloir WI3 5.8 R

Abiel Peak - Spindrift Daze III AI3+
Abiel Peak - It's Al-Der III AI4
Abiel Peak - North Face Direct III WI4

Snow Creek Wall - Swing and a Prayer IV WI5 M6 R

Lake 22 Headwall - NW Chutes IV AI4
Mt. Index - West Face 'Murphy's Law' V AI3 M4
Nason Ridge - North Face 'Alpine Dropout' III+ WI3

Whitehorse Mountain - East Face III+ AI4
http://www.ademiller.com/blogs/climbing/highlights

by **Vinny** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:00 pm

Great answers- I knew I asked the right peeps- thanks all!

hmm... any tips on finding more babysitters?
: )

winter ascent resources

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