Scott wrote:several were done SOLO and was the first to do so.
I thought you were against solo?
Quote from the thread about the John Kelly death:
One last question... where were are his compatriots????
According the CAIC Report, they were all in the Hut. Seems he went out on his own. A big no no from the group of "experienced" folks in my neck of the woods.
BTW, the folks from my neck of woods do this deal over 120 days of the year. They read this and all could not believe their eyes what they had just read.
All (some of them Patroler's with over 20 years experience here at MMSA)said instantly without hesitation......"He was well experienced, huh?"
How do Messner's ascents fit in the above?All in Alpine Style ascents
False. No offence, but you fail to know your Himalaya/Karakoram history.
For example, Gasherbrum I was his third 8000 was his first alpine ascent of a 8000 meter peak. He did repeat Nanga Parbat, but I don't belive he ever repeated Manaslu (which he didn't climb in Alpine style).
I am never said I was against SOLO if one is experienced in doing so.
Yur right about Manaslu... it was his only 8ker that he did not do Alpine Style. In the chapter regarding this particular ascent in "All 14 8kers" he shares how he never was comfortable with the situ and on page 47 his states:
"After this experience on Manaslu, I decided not to go on expeditions with other people again. If I wanted to go, I told myself six months later after I had recovered to some extent, then I must alone."
Damien Gildea wrote:I'm not sure this level of detail is relevant to this discussion, but in regard to Messner, for the record:
- Manaslu was expedition style with fixed ropes- TRUE
- Everest '78 was expedition style with fixed ropes and Sherpas
- K2 '79 was expedition style with fixed ropes: ONLY AFTER ABANDONING HIS ORIGINAL ATTEMPT ON THE MAGIC LINE
- Everest '80 solo he shuttled a load to the North Col beforehand, so not really true 'alpine style' but a staggering achievement nonetheless. Described by Anatoli Boukreev as "the climb by which all others are measured" HE ALONE SHUTTLED SOME FOOD IN CASE HE WAS HIT BY BAD WEATHER
- Kanchenjunga and Annapurna were new routes in expedition style using fixed ropes- K-THREE SHERPA'S WERE PART OF THE CLIMBING PARTY AND ALL DONE ON ONE COMPLETE PUSH/ ONE CONSISTENT PUSH AND THE FINAL COMPLETE ASCENT FROM BC WITH NO SHERPAS
- Lhotse used the Sherpa-fixed ropes in the Khumbu icefall YES, FIXED LADDERS WERE USED W/NO SHERPAS
- on the G1-G2 traverse Little Karim (Balti HAP) carried some of their gear for some of the wayDONE IN ONE PUSH WITH NO PRESET CAMPS NOR SHERPAS
etc etc ...
Come on Damien! Let's refer to this journal for the entire "For the Record" stories of all his 8k Ascents and the manner in which the final summits were actually achieved:
Fact remains that Messner achieved his 8K summits with minimal to no support after Manaslu. ALL WERE COMPLETED WITHOUT SUPPLEMENTAL 02.