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Alpine Climbing Harness

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Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby rottnutz » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:49 pm

Taking a basic climbing course starting next month. I need another harness since mine is more indoor sport/rock climbing rather than glacier. Any recommendations?
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby JHH60 » Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:32 pm

The Black Diamond Alpine Bod is inexpensive, light, no-frills, low-profile, and inexpensive but works well as an alpine harness. It has no padding, on the assumption that your clothes are the padding. One slight downside is that it has no belay loop, which doesn't prevent clipping in a belay device, but does make it slightly more awkward than what you're probably used to.
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby Autoxfil » Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:29 am

http://www.e-omc.com/catalog/products/6 ... rness.html


Best out there, and cheap!

I have the Mammut Alpine Light, but wish I'd waited for this.
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby kheegster » Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:14 pm

Here's what to look for in a glacier harness:

1. Lightweight...ideally under 300 grams
2. Removable leg loops
3. Gear loops that lie flat and won't interfere with your pack

Something simple and webbing based will do since it's an emergency piece of equipment and you won't need to hang on it unless you fall into a crevasse. I don't understand why people always recommend the BD Alpine Bod since it's relatively heavy (> 400 grams) and doesn't have a belay loop. I own the Mammut Alpine Light although the one that Autoxfil suggested looks sweet and would fulfill all the above criteria pretty well, and even looks like it'll work well for more technical alpine climbing if you end up going into that.
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby JJBrunner » Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:25 pm

If it's just for the class for now, it would probably be wiser just to use the harness you already have. Not ideal, but it'll work just fine.
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby bearbreeder » Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:04 pm

basic climbing course? ... just use the one you have now ...

dont bother getting a new one till after you take an alpine course
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby drpw » Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:35 pm

Second the BD Couloir. The thing is so dang comfy for not having any padding. Haven't taken any big falls in mine but have done enough hanging to be happy I got it over the alpine bod.
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby Alpinisto » Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:45 pm

kheegster wrote:I don't understand why people always recommend the BD Alpine Bod since it's relatively heavy (> 400 grams) and doesn't have a belay loop.


Why is a belay loop a requirement for glacier slogging?
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby ExcitableBoy » Fri Dec 17, 2010 4:07 pm

What about the Camp Air CR? 238 grams, padded waist and leg loops, belay loop, gear loops, removeable legs. BD Couloir looks nice too - simple, inexpensive, light (230 grams) and it looks like the position of the gear loops will fit nicely under a pack hip belt. Not sure How you would drop the legs and stay tied in though.

http://promountainsports.com/index.php/ ... rness.html

http://promountainsports.com/index.php/ ... uloir.html
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Re: Alpine Harness: Belay Loop

Postby robertjoy » Fri Dec 17, 2010 4:22 pm

Alpinisto: "Glacier slogging" in itself requires no harness at all, it is only when you or your partner are in a crevasse that a rope and harness become useful. In a rescue situation, the accessibility of the biners to which the rope, anchor, prussiks are attached is vital. In cold weather access is usually complicated by many layers of clothing and cold stiff fingers. In setting up a crevasse rescue haul system you may have a need to attach or un-attach several pieces of vital gear under stressful conditions. A belay loop makes all these operations much less difficult. I have taught crevasse rescue for many years, and this is a major problem. (The Black Diamond Couloir at E-OMC looks fanatastic.)
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby rottnutz » Fri Dec 17, 2010 5:18 pm

Thanks for the help. Appreciate it.

I'm sure the one I have will work for the first part of the class doing rock and rappel. I was more concerned with later glacier climbs where more layers might hinder its use..

The BD Couloir looks like great option.
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Re: Alpine Climbing Harness

Postby Kai » Fri Dec 17, 2010 7:48 pm

BD Couloir is the best alpine harness I've ever used. Light, full strength haul loop in back, gear racking options, easy on/off.
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