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California Ice Conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby PellucidWombat » Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:27 am

Sorry for being off-topic, but here's an aside as to what I think about most of the content of this thread:

A Thread About Staying On Topic in Other SP Threads

There are examples too! That way you know I'm not just being whiny and unrealistic and you have a sense of how far off base I think this thread is. :roll:

Frankly, I support what the moderators are doing and for those complainers who say that they are just 'hikers' who don't know what is on topic, that is a load of BS. You can tell based on context, and they would keep their hands off the threads if you'd just use judgement and restraint in posting. :-p

I won't post again until I have some conditions to report!
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby jediahporter » Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:53 pm

I hereby interrupt this episode of Lee Vining 90210 to bring you some facts. Ice on Chouinard Falls yesterday (1/19) was great. Little to no evidence of the warm conditions. Our group and one other pair worked Chouinard Falls. While the others in the Canyon climbed Main Wall. Excellent day! How was the ice on Main Wall? Drippy?

Headed in there now... and will be there each day through Friday.

(I thought I was just changing my password, but my user name got changed too. I used to post as" Jedsmg")
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby jediahporter » Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:56 pm

Oops, wrong date. Should say (1-18)
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby The Chief » Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:40 pm

jediahporter wrote: While the others in the Canyon climbed Main Wall. Excellent day! How was the ice on Main Wall? Drippy?


Ran up Staircase prior to Freedom yesterday... Staircase was in stellar conditions with thin but very climbable ice at the very bottom of the initial rock band (first 30 feet) and Freedom was as I posted above, very very thin at the bottom and fattens as one ascends and tops out.

Staircase.
..
Image
Image
Image



Cooler temps today as well as in the forecast for the next two weeks, should see the B/H fatten up into stellar conditions.

Edit: Correction.
Last edited by The Chief on Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby granjero » Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:12 pm

Vitaliy M wrote: a boom box


In the words of the great JB: "You've got rap bolts, I (we've) got rap music!" :D

Also, reports of interesting mixed climbing potential in the Sierra Buttes was given by some friends who snowmachined there to ride snowboards for those interested in exploring a neat region of the northern Sierra...
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby SoCalHiker » Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:47 pm

Ok boys, last warning. If you don't stop with personal insults and even hints at insulting others and continue to post off-topic remarks in this thread I will lock it. I don't have time and the nerve to manually delete all your childish posts. Post ice-climbing conditions, and nothing else. Go to off-route for playing toddlers.
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby kevin trieu » Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:46 am

granjero wrote:
Vitaliy M wrote: a boom box


In the words of the great JB: "You've got rap bolts, I (we've) got rap music!" :D

Also, reports of interesting mixed climbing potential in the Sierra Buttes was given by some friends who snowmachined there to ride snowboards for those interested in exploring a neat region of the northern Sierra...


in places where the ice is too thin, can you chip the ice away and place a bolt in the rock? i think it would make mixed climbing conditions much safer in Lee Vining.
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby The Chief » Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:53 am

kevin trieu wrote:in places where the ice is too thin, can you chip the ice away and place a bolt in the rock? i think it would make mixed climbing conditions much safer in Lee Vining.


LVC Ice area is entirely on PRIVATE PROPERTY easement. Unless both of the LM's gave their approval to do so, as they have for ALL the current bolts and anchors in situ, I guarantee that they would get chopped within 24 hours of placement.
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby The Chief » Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:53 am

Not much of a Horsetail fan, Too much time walking for a shortlived and small area. Roadside is fun when in. Day time temps will be dropping a good 15-20 degs within the next day or two and then remain there.

This recent "thaw" is normal for this time of the year. We actually have had a much shorter period of warm temps than normal.

x15x15 wrote:oh, and by the way, at least that tahquitz thread stayed way more on topic than this one, AND the chief was noticeably absent... go figure...


That line ya'll were grandiosely spraying on each other over, it is just another fun climb amongst many. We got several going that are just as long if not longer, stiffer and in just the same if not thinner conditions here on the B/H.

Here's one from three weeks ago. Lot more exposed rock and longass proless climbing than your fun route btw. BFD!
They are just another line to get challenged on. Nothing more....
Image

Go figure....

Edit: Additions and Clarity!
Last edited by The Chief on Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:24 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby 96avs01 » Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:19 am

Shane Rathbun wrote:Where in the Northern Sierra?


Sierra Buttes
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby SoCalHiker » Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:20 am

I hope this is my last post here. I chose to post that openly in the thread instead of PMing everybody. As this is a General Forum thread, absolutely no posts that can be reasonably viewed as direct or indirect insults, even if subtle, will be tolerated. No such posts from anybody against anybody.

This thread is very informative when on topic and very useful. It also has superb photos that makes everybody drool. Please don't mess it up. Consider that as a serious advice. People have been banned for repeated personal insults in General Forum threads before.
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby The Chief » Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:29 am

The beauty of climbing ice is identical to that of getting on any aid route.

Ones A1 line can be another's terrifying A5+.

It is all relative regardless of locale.
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby 96avs01 » Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:20 pm

Shane Rathbun wrote:
96avs01 wrote:Sierra Buttes


Where in the Sierra Buttes is it?


PM granjero
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby granjero » Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:18 pm

From my understanding (I haven't seen for myself so I can't give you precise lat/lon of the first pitch) there is a lot of mixed rock/ice/snow climbing all along the northern faces of the Buttes. Probably not crazy long, but certainly entertaining and a beautiful area. It stays cold and gets no sun this time of year. I just heard from friends that the potential is there, go check it out and report back asap! :)
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Re: California Ice Conditions

Postby jediahporter » Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:57 pm

Alrighty, more info, this time in video form... We're struggling getting this distributed via our usual channels, but it seems as though lots of folks check in here. And I can do all this on the go with my fancy phone. We'll get back to updating the SMG website more regularly real soon here. We're thankful to be real busy, but our info exchange is suffering.

So, a video from the 20th: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFRsqXDu9So

And one from the 21st: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msa6fJI7O8k

They're complementary, as opposed to redundant...
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