I have read many books that have a consistant theme as part of the book. And that is "young, up-and-coming climbers recieve advice from the "old pros" on rather they are ready for that next big climb/expedition. And in most cases the advice come from climbers that only know of the reputation of the young climber, they actually haven't climbed with them. To give sound advice, shouldn't have these guys actually climbed with the younger guys?

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I don't think it's such bad advice. For example, when Marmaduke says he's "ready" to do the South Face of Annapurna, I will tell you NOT to proceed.

Good advice, eh?

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Ok, that's pretty easy. I see you've climbec Big Mac (11.a). If you were planning a 17 day expedition to Devil's Thumb to climb the NW Face, would it be sound advice if say The Chief said, "yea Stevo, you're ready for that"?

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Marmaduke, what exactly are the names of these books you're reading?

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Steve1215 wrote:--

Marmaduke, what exactly are the names of these books you're reading?

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Addicted to Danger (Wickwire), Below Another Sky (Ridgeway), Forever on the Mountain (Norton), K2 Life and Death on the Worlds Most Dangerous Mountain (Viesturs), The Savage Mountain (Houston), Last Season (Blehm), Nandi Devi (Roskelley), On the Ridge Between Life and Death (Roberts). The Last Step (Ridgeway), The White Spider (Harrer), Touching the Void (Simpson), One Mountain One Thousand Summits (Wilkenson) and there are a few more........why?

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I've read a few of those books myself. I also recommend Lionel Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless, Lynn Hill's biography, Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World, and Long and Fidelman's The Stone Masters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies, by Patagonia books.

I've never heard of any "good climbers" who ask older climbers whether they're ready to do a major climb. Sounds bogus to me. Good climbers intimately know their own experiences and abilities and make that decision for themselves, after maybe asking people who have done recent ascents of the climb in question.

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Steve1215 wrote:--

I've read a few of those books myself. I also recommend Lionel Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless, Lynn Hill's biography, Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World, and Long and Fidelman's The Stone Masters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies, by Patagonia books.

I've never heard of any "good climbers" who ask older climbers whether they're ready to do a major climb. Sounds bogus to me. Good climbers intimately know their own experiences and abilities and make that decision for themselves, after maybe asking people who have done recent ascents of the climb in question.

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"receive advice" not ask if they're ready. For example the book I finished today, On the Ridge Between Life and Death by Roberts. He was like 20 yeras old at harvard and Brad Washburn met with him and suggested he go to Alaska and try Denali. They chose the Wickersham Wall and Washburn said go for it. I might be a little off on exacdt details but you get the picture,

Marmaduke wrote:I have read many books that have a consistant theme as part of the book. And that is "young, up-and-coming climbers recieve advice from the "old pros" on rather they are ready for that next big climb/expedition. And in most cases the advice come from climbers that only know of the reputation of the young climber, they actually haven't climbed with them. To give sound advice, shouldn't have these guys actually climbed with the younger guys?

Duuude...I gotta go back and explain yer own OP to you? Time for a glass of warm milk and beddy-bye, Marmaduke.

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Steve1215 wrote:

Marmaduke wrote:I have read many books that have a consistant theme as part of the book. And that is "young, up-and-coming climbers recieve advice from the "old pros" on rather they are ready for that next big climb/expedition. And in most cases the advice come from climbers that only know of the reputation of the young climber, they actually haven't climbed with them. To give sound advice, shouldn't have these guys actually climbed with the younger guys?

Duuude...I gotta go back and explain yer own OP to you? Time for a glass of warm milk and beddy-bye, Marmaduke.

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Sorry, poor choice of wording on my part. As I pointed out, "received advice" and after the advice was received, some of these guys did in fact ask if they were ready. They didn't go to the old guys looking for their opinion if they were ready.