California Ice Conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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mtndonkey

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by mtndonkey » Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:34 pm

rhyang wrote:A single 60m is fine for TR'ing the roadside ice. Two ropes are useful for rapping Horsetail (such as it is :) )


Thanks, Rob. Much appreciated, although kinda bummed the sun went away from the forecast, however it beats my earlier plan of being up on Cassaval Ridge this morning suffering.

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rhyang

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by rhyang » Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:54 pm

This time of year, I think having a little overcast is a good thing because of the sun exposure on those routes. Some pics from last March -

Heading up the tramway
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Carson Peak and North Gully
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Horsetail Falls
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Justin approaching the anchor
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Carson Peak again, from the anchor
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More views from the anchor
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The ice climbing itself was not all that steep, with hollow sections over running water :o But it was a nice hike in with some grand views, and we had the place to ourselves, quite unlike LVC. Enjoy !
Taaaake !

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fatdad

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by fatdad » Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:03 pm

Nice photos Rob, although it was hard to see the falls under all that snow. I personally like Horsetail alot. Not hard or scary. Beautiful setting. Just a fun day of climbing.

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mtndonkey

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by mtndonkey » Mon Mar 07, 2011 4:02 am

Horestail looked identical this weekend to your pictures from last year Rob. Breaking trail on the way there combined with the full sun was rough until the tramway flattened out towards the top. We climbed all day on Sat and had the place to ourselves. Ice is in kinda rough shape due to the recent snowfall and sun exposure; it was pretty aerated and the surface was like a snow cone, but still had a great time. We climbed Sun at roadside and it paid off getting there early due to the number of people that showed up and large guided parties. The ice was in much better shape in general, although very thin in the areas near the rocks.

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Vicles

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by Vicles » Thu Mar 10, 2011 2:26 am


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Vicles

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by Vicles » Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:17 am


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SKI

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by SKI » Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:41 am

Vicles, put a shirt on.

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rhyang

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by rhyang » Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:00 pm

Climbed in the canyon this past weekend. The Bard-Harrington and Main Walls were getting afternoon sun, so it's probably a good plan to start and be done early (maybe bring skis).

No horizontal cracks in the Bard yet .. the storms this week will probably help keep it in shape.
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We climbed the left side yesterday, and a party did the fat route up the center about the same time as us. A guide told me Photoshop was in good shape too.

Justin starting up first pitch
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Me on second pitch
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Sunday was overcast and we got snowed on towards the top. That was kinda fun :mrgreen:

Main Wall - seemed to get lots of traffic
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Looked like Caveman was in !

Me leading Left Flow (WI4-), a dude was rope soloing next door
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Chouinard Falls - quite the scene, looked like the climbing gym on Tuesday night !
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Right Side
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Great to run into all the usual suspects :twisted: In other news, I hear Doug Nidever is recovering well -- he went x/c skiing recently, and he may be out climbing ice again soon !
Taaaake !

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JHH60

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by JHH60 » Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:39 pm

Anyone been out in the last couple weeks? How are conditions?

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JHH60

 
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Re: California Ice Conditions

by JHH60 » Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:15 pm

Climbed on Chouinard falls yesterday. The Main Wall and Bard Harrington Wall had lots of cracks and looked pretty scary but the ice was still decent on Chouinard. In the afternoon, as it got warmer, big chunks of ice started to com down from the left side of Chouinard onto the boulders near the rescue litter, which was a little scary when taking a rest, but otherwise it was a fun day of climbing. The snow was very soft on the hike in and even with snowshoes we broke through in one spot. While this is probably the last week of the water ice season, it's kinda fun to climb in such warm conditions.

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