Mountaineers' Route Beta

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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Deb

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by Deb » Thu May 19, 2011 1:50 am

The Chief wrote:Deb...

The Hill has recorded 19" of freshies since Sunday Night. It has been snowing off and on the last two days throughout the entire Eastside with clearing skies tomorrow and onward through early this weekend.

This weekends newes GFS Models/Forecast Run has totally backed off on the original trough and is now indicating clear weather through Sunday afternoon with possible TS's Sunday afternoon. With that said, Friday and Saturday are looking good and Sunday looks more TSish in the afternoon.

But as I tell anyone heading up the MR this time of the year, be prepared for anything and be armed for bear.

Be safe and have fun.



BTW: Will probably be in the Hills this weekend with Michele and local friends. Ghosts etc. IF ya'll bail, come on by the Ghosts.


Thanks Rick. We're going for it unless something spectacularly horrid changes with the weather - I'm ready, but I guess we can pack our new gear just in case. :)

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ElGreco

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by ElGreco » Thu May 19, 2011 7:50 am

I was up there on the same weekend that Joeyroo describes above. Here's my buddy's video of the climb, where you can see the conditions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLSwSbsWFrY&hd=1

Things will have changed by now but, for what it's worth, here's how it was for us:

We had snowshoes, but we didn't need them. Cold temps kept things firm.

We got onto snow within 30min from the Portal. The willows were still covered up and we didn't have to use the ledges. Careful though, since the snow on the steep slabs on the left side of the creek going up above was sliding, taking trees down.

The gully was covered in snow with almost to the notch, where some scree was showing. The final 400 started out mixed, with 1-2 pitches of rock before you got on snow (all the way to the summit ridge). Most people were soloing it, but if you are not used to crampons on rock, some pro might make it more pleasant. The snow was on its way to consolidating, with a fairly hard, thick crust on top and softer snow underneath. Kicking steps was possible but arduous most of the time - very little in the way of ice.

The winds were howling. The avy center reported them at 60-70mph that weekend. Not sure they were that strong, but they were the biggest challenge for sure. We summited on Sunday Apr24 in parkas and goggles. Camping between Iceberg and UBSL was thoroughly unpleasant because of wind and transported snow...

Good luck, and I hope the mountain treats you better!

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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by achiral » Thu May 19, 2011 11:10 am

ElGreco wrote:I was up there on the same weekend that Joeyroo describes above. Here's my buddy's video of the climb, where you can see the conditions:


It's a small world - we also had a party of four that headed up on that Sunday. The conditions were certainly cold and windy; I'd estimate 50+ at the notch. We weren't certain of the temperature, but water bottles were freezing inside jacket pockets, so reasonably cold.

We started from UBSL and were on the summit around 9am; soloing the gully wasn't bad after the exposed rock bands. We probably crossed paths as our group was descending. And if you had time to enjoy the summit hut, we shoveled it out to take a break from the wind and grab a bite to eat. Someone had left the door open and snow was 4' high and 4' deep into the hut.

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Dave Daly

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by Dave Daly » Thu May 19, 2011 5:44 pm

NOAA and the GPS indicator shows 30% snow flurries after 11AM on Sat. Winds fairly tame for that neck of the woods too (5-10 mph). Of course, anything is possible. Now, if the trough looked wild and Mother Nature wanted to throw a curve ball in the plans, we'd reevaluate our plans. However,....

....this crew ain't a bunch of Armchair SP climbers/mountaineers. Gonna have fun with that so called "100%", while a few others flirt with 30% anxiety. :roll:
"All you touch and all you see, is all your life will ever be."
~ David Gilmour, Pink Floyd

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kevin trieu

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by kevin trieu » Thu May 19, 2011 7:39 pm

Lionel wrote:
Dave Daly wrote:....this crew ain't a bunch of Armchair SP climbers/mountaineers. Gonna have fun with that so called "100%", while a few others flirt with 30% anxiety. :roll:

I'll have you know I only summit on bluebird days.


Pussy. The Chief would not approve.

Your profile picture is genius. I'm getting a t-shirt.
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Deb

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by Deb » Thu May 19, 2011 10:40 pm

forget it i'm too scare now i'll stay home and watch the entire box set of sex in the city

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The Chief

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by The Chief » Thu May 19, 2011 11:41 pm

Dave Daly wrote:....this crew ain't a bunch of Armchair SP climbers/mountaineers. Gonna have fun with that so called "100%", while a few others flirt with 30% anxiety. :roll:


Really?

I seem to recollect that a part of your "crew" (not the female side) was severely concened over the wintery weather, on several occasions, this past Winter, up at LVC and canx'd out cus it was a bit snowy and, cold?

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Dave Daly

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by Dave Daly » Thu May 19, 2011 11:59 pm

Ummm....yes, the female side of that crew WAS concerned with the conditions (heavy snow loading on icy slabs and walls). You might want to get them facts right before launching into a tirade of "proved ya wrong" rants.
"All you touch and all you see, is all your life will ever be."
~ David Gilmour, Pink Floyd

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The Chief

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by The Chief » Fri May 20, 2011 12:21 am

Dave Daly wrote:Ummm....yes, the female side of that crew WAS concerned with the conditions (heavy snow loading on icy slabs and walls). You might want to get them facts right before launching into a tirade of "proved ya wrong" rants.



Hmmmmm... No tirade Dave Daily.

PM I got (still have it aamf) states that it was the "Male" side that was concerned at the "heavy snow loading" and other "potential" issues that never happened actually too bad actually as the ice was fabulous and had it to ourselves..but what ever Dave.

Have fun. Weather will be fine all through the weekend.

Local Reno NWS 239 PM PDT THU MAY 19 2011 says ya'll will be fine through Sunday mid-day down that at a way as does the newest GFS Model runs for both Sat & Sun.:

A PACIFIC TROUGH WILL PUSH INTO THE WEST COAST LATE FRIDAY NIGHT
AND EARLY SATURDAY MORNING WITH INCREASING CHANCE FOR SHOWERS AND
THUNDERSTORMS THROUGH THE WEEKEND. BEST CHANCE SATURDAY IS NORTH
OF SUSANVILLE/GERLACH AS A WAVE AND A FRONTAL BOUNDARY MOVES ALONG
THE OREGON BORDER. FARTHER SOUTH...ISOLATED SHOWERS AND STORMS ARE
POSSIBLE BUT AN INCREASING SOUTHWEST FLOW MAY STABILIZE THE RENO-
CARSON-TAHOE AREA TO INHIBIT CONVECTION AND PRODUCE BREEZY
AFTERNOON WINDS ALONG THE SIERRA FRONT
.


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Dave Daly

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by Dave Daly » Fri May 20, 2011 12:50 am

Post it or send me the email.
"All you touch and all you see, is all your life will ever be."
~ David Gilmour, Pink Floyd

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The Chief

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by The Chief » Fri May 20, 2011 1:04 am

Have fun this weekend & don't even think about bailing cuz of the weather. It will be just fine for ya'll fair weather bluebirds out there.




Go and enjoy the MR this weekend. The weather will be fine for a great "Crew" outting.

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Deb

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by Deb » Mon May 23, 2011 7:52 am

All done! Had great weather, even though it snowed. Got to see the sun for awhile, then lightning over the valley, great company, long trail, soft snow, and beer back at the truck. :)

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The Chief

 
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Re: Mountaineers' Route Beta

by The Chief » Mon May 23, 2011 5:22 pm

Deb wrote:All done! Had great weather, even though it snowed. Got to see the sun for awhile, then lightning over the valley, great company, long trail, soft snow, and beer back at the truck. :)



Sounds like the perfect ALPINE adventure. Great to hear that ya'll had fun in doing so.

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