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Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

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Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby saintlade » Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:25 pm

Hey guys,

was hoping to get a pair of Sarkens for my gf's Spantiks for a trip to Peru coming up soon, called Lyon Equip up but they're out of stock at the moment. They had Dartwins in stock so have opted for those but suddenly worrying about the wisdom of my decision. Without the hooded frontpoints of the Sarkens are they going to be much cop in the Cordillera Blanca, we'll mostly be doing snow/ice routes around the Difficile mark as she's not got a great deal of experience. Was thinking of giving her my Sarkens and I'll make do with the Dartwins, will wrap some Gaffa tape round them in lieu of antiballing plates but worried about the front points. Would I be better off rolling with a more classic design like the Vasaks;

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/mountai ... pons/vasak

what are people's thoughts? I've only ever used crampons with vertical front points for Scottish winter climbing and a bit of ice cragging, never the horizontal style. Having last minute panic attacks about kit, can't get hold of the pack I finally had settled on after a fair amount of deliberation as well. I know whatever I have I will make do and put up with, people climb far harder stuff than I with much worse kit but I'd like to give myself the best advantage possible to make up for my inability.
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby Buz Groshong » Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:14 pm

I've never done anything more difficult than AD or AD- but all I've ever seen down there was horizontal front points. Also, for what it's worth, I never ran into any hard ice.
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby saintlade » Fri Jul 01, 2011 3:42 pm

Last time I was there (2009) I did the French Direct which was mostly ice in the upper reaches and the Sarkens worked really well for that, I've never really used horizontal front points and for that steepness of ice (circa 75 degrees?) I'm not sure how they'd perform. I suppose what I'm asking is does the difference between horizontal and vertical make a big difference on ice, I suppose if the ice gets a bit slushy thebn horizontals are better, but iof it's slushy I'll probably not be stressing as much as I would trying to bash horizontals into bullet hard ice?
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby Buz Groshong » Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:35 pm

I've seen guys climb water ice around here with horizontal front points, but I wouldn't want to try it. All of the stuff I did in the CB was glacier ice and not much of it was front-pointing. Hopefully someone with more experience will help you with answers; you probably should post this in the South America forum.
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby Dane1 » Mon Jul 04, 2011 5:27 pm

Dartwins are great crampons. You can stop worring ;-)

"I suppose what I'm asking is does the difference between horizontal and vertical make a big difference on ice, I suppose if the ice gets a bit slushy thebn horizontals are better, but iof it's slushy I'll probably not be stressing as much as I would trying to bash horizontals into bullet hard ice?"

On slush or wet ice the Horizontals offer marginally more support. On bullet proof, or really cold winter ice, sharp Verts are marginally better. But both are the extremes. Horizonals or Verts really doesn't make any differenece the majority of time.

Dartwin is a lwt and excellent all around crampon. Add a the Petzl bot for the heel and you are set.
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby saintlade » Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:33 pm

Thanks again Dane, just about finished stressing about gear now, can't wait to just get on the flight. It's of those things that when it comes down to it I'm sure whatever I will take will be more than sufficient, after all people have done far gnarlier shit with much worse shit in the past. I reckon a quick wrap of good old duct tape around the front section should help a bit on the balling up. Looking forward to getting a month of work finished on school expedition and then having 2 months of fun, space and contemplation amongst some beautiful surroundings. Final important gear choice that needs to be weighed up is the all important reading material.
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby Dane1 » Tue Jul 05, 2011 5:33 pm

Have fun...

all you need now is a decent solar panel and a Kindel

http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-Wireless-R ... B002FQJT3Q

Likely pay for both just in the lack of luggage over charges :)
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby Buz Groshong » Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:26 pm

Dane1 wrote:Have fun...

all you need now is a decent solar panel and a Kindel

http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-Wireless-R ... B002FQJT3Q

Likely pay for both just in the lack of luggage over charges :)


No need to bring a Kindle, there are plenty of places in Huaraz that will lend you a book. First time I went down there, my guide brought along a book for me to read. I didn't finish it though, so I had to buy a copy when I got back home. You might want to bring along something to donate to the hotel or coffee shop that you borrow a book from.
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby saintlade » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:23 pm

I'm quite lucky in that department, flight out and all baggage is covered by the school group I'm taking so can pack as many books as my shoulder's will bear, just got to watch the weight for the return trip. Kindle might not be a bad idea though I'm quite a big fan of the book as object, arguments on either side for simplifying things down either way.
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Re: Petzl Dartwins for Cordillera Blanca

Postby Dane1 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:51 am

Actually it was kind of a joke. But the ability to down load any thing is pretty impressive. The Kindle and a small charger are less than on thick paper back for weight and size.

Wife loves her's but next trip to Alaska I'll take one myself.
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