Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby JedSMG » Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:04 pm

Just got back from 4 days at the Palisade Glacier. A little conditions summary video: http://youtu.be/H0MAIrsuOdY

Chad and I approached to the "Fischer Camp" on the west moraine of the glacier. Continuous, suncupped snow from Sam Mack up.

The second day we climbed the L-Shaped Snowfield route on Sill and the "Yellow Brick Road" on Gayley in perfect conditions.

Day 3 we did the U-notch in challenging conditions. On descent we cleaned up 12 pounds (not 20, as I suggested in the video :oops: ) of old rappel slings, rattly pins, jingus nuts, and even a 1974 quarter, a camelback nozzle, and some other contraband. Some of the highest "stranded" anchors were out of reach and remain as reminders of an older, fatter U-notch ice climb. And I am sure there are anchors buried under this year's layer. There are now good rock-based anchors in the lower 3rd of the route. The upper 2/3rds is currently down-climbable, but will soon be safe to descend on v-threads. Let's keep it clean up there. Be safe, but remember all the "LNT" descending options: Specifically, run these skinny ropes directly through v-threads, or come down on bollards. A bollard chopped into the lip of a couloir-wall moat can be real fast and secure.

Here's our pile of "tat". I am just realizing that the photo is out of focus, or is that my computer screen? Chad, have a better one?

Image

In summary, the Palisades couldn't be in better condition! Fast, consolidated snow, cruiser approach, dry rock, and relatively good weather. Awesome! Enjoy.
Last edited by JedSMG on Thu Jul 21, 2011 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User Avatar
JedSMG

 
Posts: 125
Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:37 pm
Location: Bishop, California, United States
Thanked: 23 times in 10 posts

The following user would like to thank JedSMG for this post
96avs01, granjero, RSN473, Vitaliy M., WML

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby SJ » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:03 pm

Sweet! Can't wait to get up there!
User Avatar
SJ

 
Posts: 75
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:57 pm
Location: Santa Monica, California, United States
Thanked: 4 times in 3 posts

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby WML » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:30 pm

Thanks for helping keep it clean out there!
User Avatar
WML

 
Posts: 246
Joined: Wed May 06, 2009 12:20 am
Location: The Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 19 times in 15 posts

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby bajaandy » Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:45 am

Sweet. Nice update vid and good on ya for the clean up.
User Avatar
bajaandy

 
Posts: 246
Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 11:03 am
Location: Escondido, California, United States
Thanked: 5 times in 5 posts

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby granjero » Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:31 am

Bravo Jed! Did you do any cool bishop2bishop bike ride to ski descents this year?
User Avatar
granjero

 
Posts: 127
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:47 am
Location: Beneath Akigaibi, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 46 times in 29 posts

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby asmrz » Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:46 pm

Thanks Jed. Wonderful attitude and clean up action. Much appreciated. Alois.
User Avatar
asmrz

 
Posts: 924
Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2002 7:52 am
Location: Idyllwild, San Jacinto Mountains, California, United States
Thanked: 146 times in 99 posts

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby Palisades79 » Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:43 pm

Good job. The camp is the one of the PSOM sites named after John Fischer (not Fisher). In 1978 ,John showed me a Norman Clyde stash near Contact Pass which was a large metal garbage can full of junk that Clyde had picked up in the area and said that there were several others in the Palisades.


Jerry Adams ,Sacramento
Palisades79

 
Posts: 184
Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: sacramento, California, United States
Thanked: 21 times in 18 posts

The following user would like to thank Palisades79 for this post
JedSMG

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby The Chief » Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:29 pm

Jed... good job.

WOW! Sure looks like a buttload more tat grew since we did the same two years ago. We too had a ton of crap that I brought out.

Were you able to clean out the several different fixed Camalots & Friends from the Island down to the last Rap? I desperately tried two years ago during our clean up project and could not get them out. I am assuming that you did not even encounter them as the snow level is much higher this year than it was two years ago. Probably all still buried huh?
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

Re: U-Notch Climb, Conditions, and Cleanup

Postby JedSMG » Thu Jul 21, 2011 5:20 pm

Granjero: Nope. And don't remind me! :-) Though I have more than my share of excuses, I'm not psyched that I let this one slip through. Excuses like: the best powder season ever, a month in Alaska, 3 big "professional development" courses, a divorce, the best ice season in a while, and laziness. You know, stuff like that... Maybe I'll do a dry-land version in the fall.

Jerry A: Thanks for the post. And for the spelling correction. I spoke briefly with John about your climbs with him. Sounds like the two of you had some sweet adventures!

Chief: Yup, there's still tons of stuff both above and below the current snow line. Some of the anchors we cleaned up had rap-rings etc. frozen into the gliding couloir. Pulled tight as a bow-string! Probably pulls off some of those flakes on occasion! One pin anchor was easier to clean by prying the flake off.
User Avatar
JedSMG

 
Posts: 125
Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:37 pm
Location: Bishop, California, United States
Thanked: 23 times in 10 posts


Return to California

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: labgloves, montanaceltic and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.