by AlexeyD » Thu Jul 28, 2011 6:23 am
by brenta » Thu Jul 28, 2011 7:05 am
I also like the C3
by Autoxfil » Thu Jul 28, 2011 2:36 pm
AlexeyD wrote:With CCH out of business, what are people's thoughts on the best small-size cams currently on the market? I know Metolius TCUs are popular, but I find the double stem to be disadvantageous for small, pea pod type placements (and also easier to get stuck). Other thought?
by CClaude » Thu Jul 28, 2011 3:10 pm
by brenta » Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:29 pm
The Chief wrote:Sent three back to BD two weeks ago. The Trigger mechanism is made out of plastic and the trigger wire is not securely attached to the plastic retainer. Any negative pull on the lobe instantly pulls the trigger wire completely out of and off the plastic ring and that is all she wrote.
Had that happen to all three of my C3's, brand new mind you, on my first outing with them.
by Buckaroo » Sat Jul 30, 2011 6:36 am
Autoxfil wrote:Mastercams seem to be the best cam in the next size range - about 1-4 on the Metolious scale. The smaller ones (0 and 00) are too wide with too little range - they only work well on perfectly parallel placements. The bigger sizes (5-6) have too floppy of a stem and the 6 in particular is a pain to place, especially when new. I'll swap my almost-new number 6 for a red C4 in a heartbeat. But, 1-4 are much better than the bigger C3s and smaller C4s. The heads are very narrow and they are significantly lighter.
Slider nuts while I use on leads of other routes in granite or basalt, I would not trust taking long falls on the soft sandstone due to the expansion range.
by SKI » Sun Jul 31, 2011 4:50 am
by brenta » Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:07 pm
The Chief wrote:As far as the C3's go, all three were placed in somewhat flaring cracks, they partially walked and apparently flared one of the lobes open. In retracting to reset, the lobe caught the lip of the crack preventing any further closing movement.
by AlexeyD » Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:26 pm
SKI wrote:I've belayed someone who had an alien become dismantled before my eyes (scary) and have heard several other stories about similar occurances...
by CClaude » Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:53 pm
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