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Teton questions for routes in Garnet Canyon

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Teton questions for routes in Garnet Canyon

Postby marauders » Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:20 am

Heading up to Garnet Canyon next week. I've been up there before on the Upper Exum, Grand Teton, and wanted to explore a bit more.
Here's a few questions I have for our plans this time:

1. The guide book describes a "petzoldt ridge" and "direct petzoldt ridge". The latter appears to stick with the arete. Any advice on the better of the two routes?
2. Does the north face of Nez Perce have quality rock between the Hourglass couloirs?
3. Of the various moderate routes (rock and mixed) on the Middle Teton, which would you recommend?

Thanks in advance,
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Re: Teton questions for routes in Garnet Canyon

Postby Clark_Griswold » Thu Aug 04, 2011 4:11 am

Not 100% sure, but I remember speaking with other climbers at the ranch last year who were going to do the Petzolt. Stettner Couloir was letting rocks fly, and I think the direct petzoldt ridge crossing in front of it. Look into that.
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Re: Teton questions for routes in Garnet Canyon

Postby dayinthelife » Thu Aug 04, 2011 11:12 am

I don't know how 'direct' it really is, but start from the toe of the Petzoldt and avoid getting anywhere near or into the Stettner, a fearsome death alley of falling rocks. Even the first pitch of the Petzoldt is a little scary right now. Once up a pitch or two, you can watch the show.
N Face Nez Perce is junk. Yes, you might luck out and have a few sections of ok rock, but in general it's not so good.
The Buckingham Ridge, aka SE Ridge, is a quality route. The Ellingwood Couloir will have snow to deal with, and it's a long ways to the start of the climb.
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