96avs01 wrote:As of Saturday 8/6 it was nearly entirely suncupped snow above Ruby Lake. Knife-edge is clear of snow. Carried pons and axe, and happily used both.
Hey, thanks for kicking in those steps. We used them on Sunday 8/7. As we carried only axes and no crampons the steps actually helped.
I think in a week or two crampons will be mandatory in the couloir.
You can avoid some of the snow above Ruby lake, if you prefer. There is a large section around Mills lake that is melted out and has a semblance of a trail. Snow would be a better way to go in most other places, unless you are a big fan of talus.
Ideal conditions on Abbot overall. You could not ask for anything better than it is right now.