Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Garda hitch instead of guide plate?

Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.
 

Garda hitch instead of guide plate?

Postby guhj » Mon Oct 17, 2011 12:49 pm

Late last night, I was sitting around playing with my ropes and crabs and other climbing gear, and I realised that "guide plates" (Kong GiGi, BD ATC-Guide, Petzl Reverso etc.) are pretty much just ratchets (when used to belay from the top). So, I figured, why not use a garda hitch and save all of $20 instead? ;-)

So, yeah, the monetary savings are ridiculously small, so maybe that's no good reason to use it, and of course the garda is no good for belaying a leader, but is there any reason *not* to use it for belaying from the top?

The one issue that I'm aware of is that it's tricky to feed rope out of a loaded garda hitch. Are there other problems?
guhj

 
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:20 am
Location: Luleå, Sweden
Thanked: 10 times in 3 posts

Re: Garda hitch instead of guide plate?

Postby AlexeyD » Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:37 pm

guhj wrote:Late last night, I was sitting around playing with my ropes and crabs and other climbing gear, and I realised that "guide plates" (Kong GiGi, BD ATC-Guide, Petzl Reverso etc.) are pretty much just ratchets (when used to belay from the top). So, I figured, why not use a garda hitch and save all of $20 instead? ;-)

So, yeah, the monetary savings are ridiculously small, so maybe that's no good reason to use it, and of course the garda is no good for belaying a leader, but is there any reason *not* to use it for belaying from the top?

The one issue that I'm aware of is that it's tricky to feed rope out of a loaded garda hitch. Are there other problems?


Another problem is that the garda (or Munter) hitch works partly by twisting the rope as it passes through the 'biner, which results in a very kinked rope by the time you're near the end. Apart from the annoyance factor associated with this twisting, it will probably reduce the rope's lifetime quite a bit if you keep using it, which is another reason why this method is not used on a regular basis.
User Avatar
AlexeyD

 
Posts: 2058
Joined: Thu Jun 06, 2002 11:13 am
Location: Boulder, Colorado, United States
Thanked: 56 times in 44 posts

Re: Garda hitch instead of guide plate?

Postby bdynkin » Mon Oct 17, 2011 3:06 pm

guhj wrote:Are there other problems?

It twists rope. It can unscrew a carabiner's gate if you tie it on a wrong side.

On a plus side: unidirectional; allows instanteneous swicth from follower to leader belay; you can't loose it.
bdynkin

 
Posts: 202
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 4:04 pm
Location: Boston, Massachusetts, United States
Thanked: 12 times in 12 posts

Re: Garda hitch instead of guide plate?

Postby guhj » Mon Oct 17, 2011 7:04 pm

bdynkin wrote:On a plus side: unidirectional; allows instanteneous swicth from follower to leader belay; you can't loose it.
You must be talking about the munter hitch, right? 'Cause the garda (being a ratchet) sure doesn't switch from taking in to paying out; that's the whole point.

I've never noticed any twisting of the rope using the garda, but I've never run a full rope length through it either. So, now I know what I'll be doing tonight. ;-)
guhj

 
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:20 am
Location: Luleå, Sweden
Thanked: 10 times in 3 posts

Re: Garda hitch instead of guide plate?

Postby guhj » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:15 pm

Well, it turns out the garda hitch twists ropes really bad. I've only ever used it for a couple of meters before and not noticed it, but after 10 m with a nicely flaked rope I had a bunch of kinks on it. Not good.

So the garda hitch is out of the game.

I started experimenting with a biner brake with the load strand coming out on top, but that seemed to depend too much on choosing the right biners to be useful. Difficult to get easy taking in of slack while making sure the brake couldn't flip around and do something stupid.

Oh well, at least now I know. :)
guhj

 
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:20 am
Location: Luleå, Sweden
Thanked: 10 times in 3 posts

Re: Garda hitch instead of guide plate?

Postby bdynkin » Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:03 pm

guhj wrote:
bdynkin wrote:On a plus side: unidirectional; allows instanteneous swicth from follower to leader belay; you can't loose it.
You must be talking about the munter hitch, right?


Oops, sorry. Yes, I meant munter hitch and I thought garda is just another name for it.
bdynkin

 
Posts: 202
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 4:04 pm
Location: Boston, Massachusetts, United States
Thanked: 12 times in 12 posts


Return to Technique and Training

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.