boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

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mountainsandsound

 
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boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

by mountainsandsound » Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:53 pm

I want to ease my way into some mixed climbing this winter. It will probably entail steeper hard snow, some non-vertical ice, with some rock mixed in. I can get a screaming deal on some scarpa invernos, but would a plastic boot be good for this? For the cascades in the summertime I have actually been using just a heavy duty leather backpacking boot with a 3/4 shank, but now I obviously need something different. What do people recommend?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

by ExcitableBoy » Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:18 pm

I have a pair of Scarpa Invernos purchased in 1994. They are great for winter climbs on Rainier and Alaskan and South American exploits, but there are certainly much better plastic boots built now that are lighter and more nimble and an overall better choice.

As long as you are not planning on winter ascents of Rainier, my recommendations for mixed winter climbing in the Cascades is a insulated leather boot like the La Sportiva Nepal Evo/Scarpa Mont Blanc/etc. They will be perfect for any three season routes on Rainier or the other big volcanoes as well as year round use the the rest of the Casacades and waterfall climbing on the West coast.

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Autoxfil

 
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Re: boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

by Autoxfil » Wed Oct 05, 2011 2:26 am

I agree with Mr. Zevon. There are a huge number of good boots in that category - visit a local shop and get fit for an "insulated, automatic crampon compatible, single boot with full shank".

Fit is everything with these boots. The soles are totally rigid, but they have varying amount of flex in the uppers. If the boot doesn't cup your foot just right, and flex just where your foot pivots, they will not be very comfortable. They don't break in to fit your foot like a more flexible boot would.

Fortunately, there are tons of options. LaSportiva and Scarpa are the two big names, but Mammut, Kayland, Millet, and others make great boots as well. One of them will fit you.

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mountainsandsound

 
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Re: boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

by mountainsandsound » Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:11 pm

Thanks for the advice. Was hoping not to have to drop $400, but if that's what it takes then that's what it takes. Unfortunately I'm a grad student without a big income at the moment, so I might have to stick with snowshoe hikes and gym climbing at the YMCA again this winter! I have never had boots with a full steel shank, I am curious, how do they feel when scrambling on rock?

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Autoxfil

 
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Re: boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

by Autoxfil » Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:23 pm

The shanks are usually plastic, not steel. Scrambling is different - you can't smear much at all, but they edge like mad.

And yeah, it just takes $400. But, they will last forever.

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aran

 
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Re: boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

by aran » Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:15 pm

I was in a similar position as you, not sure what to do, then found some new La Sportiva Trango Evo Extremes Light GTX (the lightly insulated grey ones) at an REI garage sale for way reduced price. I lucked out, and the boots have been phenomenal, from snow slogs, to minor ice use, and easy 5th class winter climbs. My feet are never cold, but they are light and quite nimble for climbing (like Autoxfil shared- great for cracks and edging).

I know the Cascades are a bit colder and wetter than the Sierra, but if you bit the bullet on a pair of these (assuming La Sportiva is a good fit for you) I bet you'd forget their price after a couple trip out- totally worth it IMHO.

Good luck!

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sneakyracer

 
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Re: boots for mixed terrain in cascades winter

by sneakyracer » Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:25 pm

Check out this pair of Scarpa's:

http://www.geartrade.com/item/213191


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