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winter mountaineering in scottland?

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winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby etai101 » Mon Nov 28, 2011 1:28 pm

hi there

i guess ill start with my short climbing history so my question be better understood.
im a intermediate alpine climber and sport climber comfort zone is ad+ climbed d+(e.g. kuffner ridge ,innominata)
sport 5.10b/c, trad 5.7, ice follow WI 4 rarely got to lead.
I've done 2 courses in the alps and trad course in Jordan, three seasons in europe also s.america big technicals(artesunraju, alpamayo,ilampu etc..)
also light climbing in the cascades, all independent and all summer seasons and i guess that's where i am right now, looking to progress.

I've always admired Scottish winter climbing and thought would be a great spot for my first winter course entailing more trad ,WI, and mixed.
the need to progress and leave comfort zone goes hand in hand with exposure bad weather and route finding problems therefore what i really need is an opinion:
a)go to the highlands for about 2-3 weeks for a intensive 10 day course and if so what to ask for? which guiding agencies are recommended? And what to look foreword to?
b)go to chamonix a place i know very well but not in winter for a whole month where i can do a week long winter course in the aiguille rouge than ski some more and learn proper winter approach and rescue, after the course there are many objectives worth looking at.
my question is not as coherent as i wanted it so again, winter course given my stats where to go and what is most nessacery to learn in winter season + recommendations on all logistical fastens.
if this wont go ill probably head to vadi ram in Jordan and practice more trad than go in the summer to chamonix

thank you.
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Re: winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby etai101 » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:20 am

bump
any info welcome prices,huts areas, reccomended guides etc.
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Re: winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby mtnjim » Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:00 pm

You might try Sandy Allen, teamascent.co.uk

I don't have any experience with his mountaineeering courses, but Sandy was my guide on my two Himalayan successes, Cho Oyu in 1997 and Everest 2001. (I also have 4 8000m failures on unguided attempts)

I have great respect for his skill and judgement.
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Re: winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby etai101 » Tue Nov 29, 2011 4:27 pm

sjarelkwint wrote:what about no course and just bumming out? looking for partners in scotland in februari ...


sjarelkwint are you looking to do what you offered a partner in this is most welcome
thats a fine idea but from what ive heard soctish winter is not to be taken lightly.

last year in chamonix the ice was really crapie so i didnt get much time in couliuers except for the cheire gullie and a few pitches on argentiere i really need to bone up on my WI and mixed.

thanks more ideads like the ones you mtnjim gave are great
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Re: winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby alexm » Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:07 pm

Hi etai101,

It all depends on what you want to do with your tie over here. There are a number of courses that you can take that are focussed on improving the type of climbing that You'll come across in Scotland. This will give you the majority of the training needed to help you feel confident. Failing that you could just start on the lower grades and build up. There is one sight in particular that you could get climbing partners from and do it that way, failing that I can point you in the right direction of training providers, however its not a cheap option.
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Re: winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby etai101 » Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:48 pm

thx for the replays all.
i already stated on "2012 goals" thread that as of last week when i got called up for army reserves right on my vaction time not alowing me any spare time(by this i mean at least a month) to go travling this winter therefor i will have to save this idea for 2013.
i barley got into planing the trip this thread was suppose to be step one...oh well

:idea: could i call this as a failed attempt to summit ben nevis, after all many failed expeditions fall down during the logistical stages even though im not on the same continent as that frozen rock :wink: done i tryied and failed to climb the mighty scottish highlands
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Re: winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby guhj » Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:44 pm

alexm wrote:There is one sight in particular that you could get climbing partners from and do it that way


And where might that be?

I'm thinking of heading to Scottland for whatever fun is in season in march.
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Re: winter mountaineering in scottland?

Postby DukeJH » Sun Jan 22, 2012 5:57 pm

You can reach out to Alan Kimber at West Coast Mountain Guides: http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/.

Alan was recommended to me by Gordon Janow at Alpine Ascents and set my Boy Scout troop with a couple of solid guides for an ascent of Wildstrubel in Switzerland and was very helpful.
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