As for the park pass and permit situation in 2011, I updated the Red Tape chapters of the two Huascarán peaks recently. Take your pick, Norte
. Nobody asked for a list of peaks that I had climbed, but if you can't show an alpine membership card, you can try to use it to persuade the officials that you know what you are doing.
Tocclaraju west face looked out of shape. Seracs and cornices making things dangerous, and the snow was gone on part of the face, making it a mixed rock climb. In contrast, the NW ridge route was in excellent shape.
I haven't heard if anybody climbed it, but the Ranrapalca northeast face looked all right from neighboring Ishinca. A few seracs on the lower part, but not nearly as much as on some other faces. A very big crevasse high up, but it appeared that it could be passed on the left side. In general, there was a bit less snow than what I saw in older photos, both on SP and Brad Johnsons guidebook. The last part below the summit ridge was mostly rock.
I heard that Huandoy might be possible from the Paron valley. From the east and the south, there were dangerous seracs high on the mountain. On the descent from Pisco, I saw an avalanche coming down, underlining the danger.
On the Shield, the normal route keeps to the left, but at the bottom a part of it was missing and a serac was hanging above it. In the middle, the ice was extremely hard, and I heard about climbers returning after a few meters because they found it too hard to get their ice screws in. And on the right, the steepest line, a big bergschrund blocked access.The Shield in 2011
I'm more into alpine climbing, but by the end of my trip, when I didn't have time for another big mountain anymore, I visited Hatun Machay. The routes
are of excellent quality, and there are enough of them to keep climbing for weeks!
For more info, don't forget to check out the thread Conditions Cordillera Blanca 2011
, and the summit log entries and trip reports of course.