myfierceblackhound wrote: For those of you dissing on plastic nuts I might suggest doing a google search on this product and read the reviews. Although no one is saying that these nuts are a game changer, the overwhelming opinion of those that have actually used them is that they are a fine addition to a rack and like every other piece of pro out there are useful in certain situations while not performing as well in some others.
I did sport... http://shop.gear4rocks.com/en/gear4rock ... nfo_9.html
Short ass 6-8 foot "Controlled" static
falls at ones local crag ARE NOT whips consistent with many of the sustained longer dynamic
10-20-30 footers I have personally experienced and seen on a regular basis out in the field over the past some 35 plus years. Guessing or asking for someone else to do the math calcs as to the load taken (by the author of this review) for these controlled 6-8 foot static
falls, is nothing short of prehistoric QA procedures and far from modern Certified lab analysis that the UIAA conducts.
The attached cables and swedging procedures are a major component of a stopper. It is in fact the weakest link involved. Not the actual stopper.
The manu states that their #2 upwards are rated at 13kn. And just how did that determine that? I have seen many a product come and go over the past thirty so years that claimed a higher KN rating than any UIAA Cert'd piece of pro, including Russian manu'd stuff (Gear4Rocks) such as these particular nuts, that when tested at the different labs including those of UIAA for actual strength loads, failed miserably to even come close to their claimed KN ratings.
Oh yeah, another factor that has not been considered in this prehistoric QA eval that is taken into consideration at the UIAA lab during the extensive testing phase, is the friction involved and the heat that is produced during a 20-30' dynamic and not static fall situ. The melting temps for plastic are hundreds of degrees less than the softest metal currently used for stopper manufacturing.
myfierceblackhound wrote:And chief why are you name calling and judging other people's experience levels? Do you know any of these people? We're all impressed at what a badass you are. Can we please have a conversation without you dominating it and putting everyone down?
Over and Out.