I was wondering what would be considered a good all around mountaineering rope? I am in the market for one and I was wondering if it is better to buy a short one or but a long one and chop it up. If anyone has any inputs I would appreciate it!

Well.... this will depend very, entirely upon what kind of mountaineering you'll be doing with the rope.

For most steep slogging, a 30m or 45m will take care of a two-man team for running belays and general crevasse hazard. You can buy Beal Rando 8mm rope in 30 and 48m... very nice light rope that ain't too bad for tangles.

You planning on doing any fixed belaying up steep ice?

What are your plans for the rope? Crossing glaciers? Technical ice pitches? Technical rock pitches? Aid pitches? No one rope is ideal for all of these applications, but a 60 meter half rope 8mm-9mm is light enough for glacier slogs and can be doubled over for short technical sections.

Here is a photo of myself on the long, but moderate full North Ridge of Forbidden. We had a 60 meter half rope, here shown doubled for a technical section:

I personally own double 8.5mm, Edelweiss Sharp Everdry ropes in 50 meter lengths. For hard alpine and ice routes I carry both, for moderate routes I carry a single one. For rock cragging I have a 60 meter, 9.8mm rope.

I agree that a single half-rope is a great, versatile tool.

I have a 9.2mm single/double (dual-rated) Sterling rope in 38m and in 60m. We still use my partner's 60m double rope(s) sometimes, but one of those two works just fine for pretty much everything.

If could only own one rope it would be a 60m rated as both a double and a single. Raps are long enough, weight is reasonable, and you can lead on a single strand or double it up. The downside is longevity, as the Sterling in particular seems to wear somewhat quickly. For alpine use this probably doesn't matter.

The rope is going to be used mostly in the Sierras. We plan on doing some glacier, steep snow and some technical rock for now. Then as our skill increases we will get into the steep ice and more technical climbs.

I'm partial to twins.... light, full-length rappels... but twin rope is not for the unexperienced- it twists and knots itself very easily, and smooth, competent multi-pitch rope-handling skill is essential. I'd strongly recommend doing some less committed scrambles or easy 5th class multi-pitch climbs before busting out twin on alpine routes... Nothing worse than hanging off an ice screw on a 50 degree slope, already behind schedule, trying to detangle 120 meters of ice floss.

For most of the stuff I do, I'll generally double up one length of 7.7mm twin. If the need arises for longer pitches, or the slope or situation isn't going to create hard leader falls, I'm comfortable leading on a single strand.

BUT... it's also been my observation that people, when getting started in this sport (I don't actually have any idea where you are, but it sounds like you're just getting into it), their ambitions WAY exceed their accomplishments for the first year or two. You'll probably be perfectly equipped for everything you'll be doing for a while with a length of Rando... might as well go 48m, for more versatility.

Just my opinion.. worth what you're paying for it.

A twin rope would be the last type I would recommend for a first rope. Ascending a twin rope as in crevasse rescue is very difficult due to the rope stretch and tiny diameter. One needs extra thin prusiks. Setting up a hauling system to pull out a crevasse victim is inefficient due to the rope stretch. Using it as a single is dangerous due to the inherent weakness. Doubling it and using it as twins are meant to be used makes for the highest impact force on protection of either half or single ropes. The only positive side is the lighter weight, which depending upon the ropes is only about 10 ounces for a 60 meter cord. And Ben B also mentioned their propensity to tangle. Can't really see any upside to using a twin over a nice, beefy half rope.

As I said, I'm actually NOT recommending it.. but if you're using twin ropes in twin config for glacier travel, you can still use the more-standard 6mm prusik, but 5mm will still work on twins. Prusiks and klemheists both work over two stands just fine, in twin config. Tiblocs are trickier, but they also still work, even on a single strand of twin... you just have to make sure you set before you weight, and you probably wont want to lead on that length again. Impact force is more, but for a 20% savings in weight, and since you dont fall in the alpine, it's worth it, to me. Again, just explaining MY choice... gonna be up to the informed individual to make his own compromises.

But I'd agree that for ONE length of all-purpose alpine rope, a single length of double is probably the best bet. Heavier, but more versatile overall.

Twins generally aren't lighter than single ropes.

Nitrox wrote:Twins generally aren't lighter than single ropes.

Right you are. I'm comparing twins to doubles. But a single length of twin is up to half the weight of a single length of single, and if you need full length rappels or want the security of two lines on lead, twins will be around 20% lighter than doubles.

Vitaliy M. wrote:

The rope is going to be used mostly in the Sierras. We plan on doing some glacier, steep snow and some technical rock for now. Then as our skill increases we will get into the steep ice and more technical climbs.

Make sure to rope up for Middle Palisade glacier.

Would parachute cord be OK for that?

Ben B. wrote:

Nitrox wrote:Twins generally aren't lighter than single ropes.

Right you are. I'm comparing twins to doubles. But a single length of twin is up to half the weight of a single length of single, and if you need full length rappels or want the security of two lines on lead, twins will be around 20% lighter than doubles.

Depending on the manufacturer there is almost no weight difference between twins and doubles. The Mammut Twilight and Phoenix come to mind. I'm sure if you look you can find heavier doubles but you can also find really light doubles too.

If you have to ask what rope to get then a single is the answer.

Thanks for the advice, after weighing all of the pros and cons I am going to take MoapaPK's advice and go with a 60M length parachute cord... j/k I am going to go with ExcitableBoy's choice for a single rope. Thanks SP

Nitrox wrote:
Depending on the manufacturer there is almost no weight difference between twins and doubles. The Mammut Twilight and Phoenix come to mind. I'm sure if you look you can find heavier doubles but you can also find really light doubles too.

If you have to ask what rope to get then a single is the answer.

Learn something new every day... http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/2 ... light.html

I didn't know the twilight was rated for half. pretty high impact force, though...

Snowslydder wrote:I am going to go with ExcitableBoy's choice for a single rope. Thanks SP

Krikes, you people aren't actually following my advice are you? It is meant for entertainment purposes only.