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Skillet Glacier

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Skillet Glacier

Postby cav14 » Tue Dec 13, 2011 3:55 am

Does anyone have any input on this route on Mt. Moran? My friend and I are considering it for this coming summer. We both have practice with crampons and ice axes, but my friend is more experienced with glacier travel. Is this a doable route for our skill level? Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby gwave47 » Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:31 am

I was wondering this to, I just watched a video of a couple of guys doing it. It looked really steep like 45 to 50 degrees, but they weren't roped and only used crampons and ski poles. Crevasses didn't appear to be an issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnmk3pdkWIA
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby ExcitableBoy » Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:30 pm

I have not climbed the Skillet Glacier, but nothing appears to be steeper than 35 degrees to my eyes.
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby jackstraw0083 » Fri Dec 23, 2011 10:34 pm

Here's a view down the Skillet Glacier...

http://www.tetonat.com/photo-gallery-2/ ... t-glacier/

It's steeper than 35 degrees, more like 50 at the top. If you type in "skiing skillet glacier" on youtube you'll find a couple very good videos that will give you a good idea of what it's like and will help you decide if you'd be comfortable on it.
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby aglane » Sat Dec 24, 2011 3:31 am

gwave47 wrote:I was wondering this to, I just watched a video of a couple of guys doing it. It looked really steep like 45 to 50 degrees, but they weren't roped and only used crampons and ski poles. Crevasses didn't appear to be an issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnmk3pdkWIA


This was a group including at least one very experienced Exum guide--well ex-Exum--who got in deep trouble with the park service--and the guide fired--for putting snowmobiles on Jackson Lake. Be forewarned.
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby gwave47 » Sat Dec 24, 2011 4:59 am

Aglane: I saw the piece about one of them being a guide in the park, wonder if he regrets it?

OP: Yeah, I'd love to try an ascent of the skillet glacier but I'd want to hear a first hand account from somebody who has done it. With the limited quality info I've been able to locate, it looks like one of those things that you could either easily do and wonder why more people don't climb it, or, easily get in over your head and realized you may have made your last mistake. I'd personally need more info on it, but that's just me. If you're up to it, best of luck, and be sure to come back and let us know how it went.
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby seano » Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:50 pm

I was there last June. It was a heavy snow year, so it wast just a really long snow climb. The crux was probably getting through the woods to the base of the avalanche run-out -- if you head up too soon, it's a hellish bushwhack. If you're comfortable on moderate snow, you should be fine.
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby Morlow » Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:51 am

Nice trip report Seano. Is there technical rock on this route when it isn't snowbound?
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby seano » Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:48 pm

Thanks. The Mount Moran page calls it 5.4 (still easier than CMC), so I guess the top of the skillet "handle" melts later in the season. I have only climbed it that one time in the snow, though.
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Re: Skillet Glacier

Postby Morlow » Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:50 am

That looks crazy fun. This is definitely on my to-do list, hopefully this summer. I will be working in Yellowstone April-November and I'll be looking for partners for adventures all year.
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