jordansahls wrote:I found the crux to be the slabs below the ridge proper, that part took a bit of thought for me. I really like the climb, much more exciting and consistent than Serpentine arete accross the way.
Vitaliy M. wrote:Is that a good one day climb?
ExcitableBoy wrote:Vitaliy M. wrote:Is that a good one day climb?
We did it in 14 hours CTC, and that was after doing a hard fast 20 mile, 8,000 ft elevation gain/loss trail run the day before. I was 40 at the time, I suspect a young, strong guy like you could do it even faster.
14 hrs CTC sounds about right. It took us 10 hours from the lake to the top, so around 15-17 hrs CTC (I don't exactly remember). However I did manage to f*#k things up with rope drag on multiple occasions so that added a couple of extra half pitches and probably a few hours to the route. Basically our time was leisurely. Also EB, thats a solid time for 40. Still, it seems all of the old school climbers I have climbed with are tough, fast bastards on route and the approach (not saying 40 is old, which it isn't. I'm going to shut up now).
Vitaliy M. wrote:Another under-appreciated route I would like to mention is Green Butte ridge on Mt. Shasta. Although it does not require roping up, I think it is more exposed than Casaval ridge, and is a lot more scenic. One of the most enjoyable day trips I had on Shasta.
Vitaliy M. wrote:Mathes is a better traverse going North to south. I want to do it again actually. Tenaya peak though a full value climb? lol might as well include 1st pitch of jamcrack. Although jamcrack probably has a longer approach/and is more technical.
I think if one wants a good full value day, it is a great idea to link North Ridge of North peak, North ridge of Conness, and West Ridge of Conness. Can bail after completing any of them. Great rock. Great scenery all day. A lot of scrambling/climbing without huge approaches. Couple of friends and I did it last summer, and we had TONS of fun.
Tenaya NOT a great climb? It goes up 2,000' from the lake, the rock is perfect, there's little traffic, & the climbing is sustained. Amazing summit views. There's even a perfect .7ish hand crack to finish the climb (if one so desires). To compare it to Jamcrack is ludicrous. N ridge of Conness (from what I've heard) has 1 section of .6, & the rest is scrambling. To each his or her own, I suppose.
Love Billy Goats Tavern. Shasta did have a 'special' feel. Maybe it was the dry climate and the oddly perfect cone shaped trees.
Vitaliy M. wrote:mvs wrote: NE Arete of Sir Donald. I don't know our exact CTC time, but it was long. Lots of soloing or simul-climbing on that required for a day trip.
My friend wants to do that, I do too.If you can pack really light, then a bivouac on the route makes it an unforgettable weekend trip, not especially hard but "just right."
So the views from high on the route are nice? I do not really enjoy to bivy, but some times it is worth it for the views IMO. Sucks to carry extra gear/food/water. I am sure there will be no snow up there to melt. Also, we will have 1 car, so unable to shuttle. Does that complicate things a lot?
How are temperatures/weather around that altitude in August? (i will check forecast when I will go, but what can I expect?)
There is also South Ridge of Mt. Gimli. If we can do Gimli, Slesse, and 3-5 climbs in Bugaboos I would be super happy. Will mostly depend on the weather.
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