What are the alternatives? Cams, hexes, nothing goes in.

It is a 8-9 meter high crack and i want to protect it. It is still unclimbed and the options i see for now is to make some kind of a cam with a pieces of wood and smash it in with my axe while climbing, other is to put a bolt in (bulgarians love sportclimbing because it is cheaper than trad ...)

Is there some kind of gear to span 40 cm wide cracks?

you have never seen a big bro?

they seem to fail often and really hard to place with one hand ...

not if used properly, on both counts...go with the 2x4's I guess or bolt the wall up

bolting doesnt feel right, considering to solo it but it's a 6b - 6b+ so might be doable but also might break my legs, boulderpads haven't been invented in Bulgaria ...

or consider learning how to properly set a big bro...and with one hand....such experience and knowledge will come in handy with big off width routes

Big Bros are spring loaded. If you can eye a placement and hang out long enough to place one, you can set it with one hand. Just set the extending side of the big bro on one side of the crack, press the trigger, and hold onto the Big Bro and guide the tube to its bearing on the other side of the crack. Spring tension should hold it somewhat in place if you still need to readjust the piece. Once in place, it will stay there as you scroll the wring lock tight - that or you can scroll it tight while still holding on to it. Any testing of the piece's security can then be done with your free arm.

Aren't you glad you don't need to use this? These probably aren't even big enough



Although, it may be a better option considering the price of the aforementioned Big Bros- $69 - $150

That is a hefty pricetag for one piece, although it is nice that Trango is sending the (dead) designer's royalties to his daughter's college fund.

seems cheaper but heavier than a drilled piece of wood which i can smash in and out with my axe ...
Though i will look ridiculous while smashing it in

Unfortunately Valley Giants cams only go up to 305cm (12") which would be a good but even more expensive (at $250 a piece for the largest). I'd go with Big Bro's then

I wouldn't trust any piece of wood hammered in with an ice axe. I think I'd be tempted to use a home made tube chock before resorting to wood, or just get solid on your offwidth.

CClaude wrote:Unfortunately Valley Giants cams only go up to 305cm (12") which would be a good but even more expensive (at $250 a piece for the largest). I'd go with Big Bro's then

Tom Kasper made a #16 Valley Giant specially for one customer. It's pictured on his website along with a plywood version that he made and used for aid on El Cap. I've cleaned the #12 following an easy free pitch. Clipped to my harness the thing was ridiculously huge, heavy and awkward, even collapsed. I just can't imagine carrying a 16" cam on lead, unless I was aiding and it was the only way.



http://www.valleygiant.com/VGhistory.html

Have you seen this? No personal experiense with it though...

40cm? Is it consistent in width? I'm not a climber, but I've seen other non-climbers chimney up 16" cracks with parallel walls, no gear. Tough if you hit a constriction, or have a wide chest.

The only pic I could find right away (tougher when it is dead vertical):

Nikolas_A wrote:Have you seen this? No personal experiense with it though...

They may only make sense as a piece to leave every so often. The three pieces cover the same range as Black Diamond Camalots (sizes 5 and 6). But with cams, you can walk them up the crack as you climb (as sort of moving pro)