by simestim » Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:44 am
by mvs » Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:15 am
by ExcitableBoy » Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:30 pm
by Marcsoltan » Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:45 am
simestim wrote:Hi guys,
I am goint to Liberty Ridge in June with 2 other climbers and I heard you could do this route (and others I suppose) with only 1 rope.
Now, my rope is a 1/2 rope, 8.1mm and 60m long (mammut phoenix dry). After searching for a while over the internet I could only found this piece of info at this website:
"When dealing with more than one second there is no need for multiple ropes. A good technique is to tie one second into the end of the rope and place the other second about 20 feet up, clipped into a cow's tail. It is important that the lower climber does not climb up faster than the first second on the cow's tail. This would generate slack between the two followers that could create a significant shock load on the belay anchor."
So here is the question: is this system ok? have you guys tried this? I am trying to avoid carrying another rope if I can.
by simestim » Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:45 pm
by ExcitableBoy » Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:48 pm
by BigMitch » Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:50 pm
by mvs » Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:58 pm
by ExcitableBoy » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:46 pm
mvs wrote:The only problem with following the approach of tying in at the middle is that typically on a steep snow climb your enemy is length. You are talking about 2000 feet or so of elevation gain. Now, if you need to belay all of that, and now furthermore reduce your rope length to 30 meters, you'll be there all day long. So you really need to see all these options as a continuum, each one we've discussed here has a place, depending on myriad parameters, including relative skill differences between leader and followers. I haven't climbed this route, so I'll have the details wrong, but I would probably shoot for a fixed belay with the halfway point tie in for no more than the two or three hardest short pitches of the route. Then some kind of moving together with rope and gear for >50%, then unroped self belay travel for another 30% or so. There are a dozen scenarios that could render that estimation worthless, but as a ballpark concept for managing available time and reasonable safety it might be an idea to consider.
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