Crack too wide for gear

by **Steve1215** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:10 am

^^^^^^^^^^

Bulgarian 5.11c looks kind of bogus...try climbing it left side in instead of right side in...rating should go down to 5.6

...this squeeze chimney might be 5.10 sumthin

vvvv

courtesy of cascadeclimbers.com

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The following user would like to thank Steve1215 for this post
Dow Williams

Deleted User · by **Deleted User** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:08 am

You cant go in, too sharp rock ...

You use the sides of the crack as handholds and when you reach the summitboulder you move out left and continue higher up. The main problem is moving out because handholds are crap and it is slightly overhanging.

by **Dow Williams** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:10 pm

You are so full of it, but for what it is worth, you do entertain me mate.

Deleted User · by **Deleted User** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:44 pm

Dow Williams wrote:You are so full of it, but for what it is worth, you do entertain me mate.

finished and solo'd ... No gear used due to no possibility either ...
just giving friendly replies

by **Steve1215** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:51 pm

.

Congrats...sounds like a life changing event...one for the history books

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The following user would like to thank Steve1215 for this post
Dow Williams

by **Dow Williams** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:47 pm

you are just so hard core dude....not sure you need a partner for the nose....(which was going to be a bit hard to come by, so it all works out in the end)

by **Andrew Rankine** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:43 pm

MoapaPk wrote:40cm? Is it consistent in width? I'm not a climber, but I've seen other non-climbers chimney up 16" cracks with parallel walls, no gear. Tough if you hit a constriction, or have a wide chest.

The only pic I could find right away (tougher when it is dead vertical):

Where is this? I was in the McDowells in Phoenix, AZ awhile back and this looks pretty similar.

by **MoapaPk** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:33 pm

rankinesoccer wrote:Where is this? I was in the McDowells in Phoenix, AZ awhile back and this looks pretty similar.

Just a random granite pinnacle on the way to Gold Cross Peak, NV. Unfortunately, the highpoint of the peak is just a rounded lump.

by **Steve1215** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 4:48 am

Dow Williams wrote:you are just so hard core dude....not sure you need a partner for the nose....(which was going to be a bit hard to come by, so it all works out in the end)

Stef and Honnold...simul-climbing Excalibur...entirely free.........it's all slowly....coming together now

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Crack too wide for gear

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