Damien Gildea wrote:For the normal routes on those peaks you just need a regular mountaineering axe, plus any second tool for the headwall on Illampu. Ancohuma you should not need two tools.
bdynkin wrote:The headwall is not that steep, but there is a shrund that can be exciting on the descent.
CAMPUSA wrote:The CAMP Alpax Special and the Cassin X-Alp would both handle the snow and 40-60 degree ice found on these routes. But it is our view that the traditional mountaineering heritage of treating an axe both as a cane for walking and as a tool for self-arrest is running its course. Using more modern techniques and committing to a stronger reliance on stability with the feet presents the opportunity tobring a more technical tool even on more moderate terrain.
CAMPUSA wrote:The more aggressively curved shaft of the X-Alp will outperform the Alpax on vertical ice water ice, steep moats/alpince, etc, and it can also be used for climbing and self-arrest on more moderate terrain.'
The obvious advantage with the more technical tool is that it can also be mployed for more technical climbing should an unexpectedy difficult section present itself during the climb
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