Thanks for the additional comments. Actually Borut, I disagree with several of the points you made, while recognizing that in a particular context, your points are highly valid too:
"For us mountaineers, climbing sport routes is training."
Yep, I think of myself as a (would-be) alpine climber. This means doing technical routes in the mountains. Of course that implies bad protection at times, and all the other things that go with mountains.
For us, "You have got to fall" is not mandatory.
Okay, sure, I mean, nothing is "mandatory." My statement is in the context of someone who wants to improve his climbing ability grade past the point that he currently finds scary because he is afraid of falling.
"We are here merely to build muscle."
For you maybe. For me it's a lot more complicated than that. It's technique, it's managing the thoughts in your head, etc. What I was seeking to convey in my post earlier, was that it's a useful skill to be able to recognize the case where your protection is bomber and you should be able to operate without excessive and unnecessary fear crippling your attempt at a hard move somewhere above that gear.
"I would say that falling is not elegant. Falling means you didn't realize what was going on."
I disagree with that too. You also mentioned that people fall on purpose to "show off." Okay, I don't understand that at all, but if you see a lot of that I can imagine how you would get sour on the whole idea.
It may be that I just can't communicate well enough to get the point across, but the deal is that I've spent many years climbing "good" from an alpine point of view...holding the attitude that you are defending...sport climbing is mere muscle building, it's not as "valid" as what we are doing, look, they are just showing off, etc. But I found that my real barrier to climbing 5.12 wasn't only strength, it was also a mental issue that clenched my brain up when the climbing really became technically difficult. You don't need these ideas for 5.10, but I think you need them for 5.11 and 5.12 (unless you are a very strong person mentally and physically, which I am not by any stretch).
Borut, when we climbed that route a year ago I was already benefitting from "falling practice." Without that I wouldn't have gotten on that UIAA VII+ pitch or whatever it was. Possibly, like many things in this day and age, I am just making a mountain out of a molehill. Another approach is "just climb" and shutup about your internal thoughts!