Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Oceania and the Pacific Islands. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Oceania Climbing Partners section.
 

Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby dadndave » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:10 pm

As of 8th December, the Birley Glacier (which you must cross on the standard route to Wright Col) is in an unstable condition. There is approximately 600mm /2ft of soft wet snow which has not adhered to the base layer. There are regular small avalanches, including one triggered by a climber attempting a self-arrest. Take care and try to get updates on conditions before attempting this route for the time being.
What is this "scientific method" you speak of?
User Avatar
dadndave
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 13507
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 12:21 am
Location: Independent Republic of North Beerwah
Thanked: 1122 times in 752 posts

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby Mountain Bandit » Thu Dec 15, 2011 1:51 am

Yeah?

We crossed the Birley this exact time of year, 2 years ago and it was in top nick!! Lets just blame La Nina.

Dadndave, have you been back since your failed attempt? I'm keen to go back - its a nice mountain.
User Avatar
Mountain Bandit

 
Posts: 68
Joined: Fri Jun 12, 2009 4:50 am
Location: Australia
Thanked: 4 times in 4 posts

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby dadndave » Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:29 am

It sure is.

I went back last week. We abandoned our attempt after getting warnings from climbers ahead of us who had turned around. The first team complained of too-slow progress plugging through knee-deep soft, wet snow. The second team coming back had a near miss. One of them had slipped and his attempted self-arrest had resulted in him taking a fair slice of the surface layer down the hill with him. Luckily the whole thing stopped of its own accord before he went over the edge. (No doubt you remember the 100 metre cliff below the Birley!). That bloke was pretty badly shaken, I can tell you.

Anyway, putting the two reports together we concluded that there must be a deep unbonded layer sitting on top of the Birley and we decided against attempting to cross.

Back at Kea basin we saw a couple of avalanches coming off the East Face glacier - not the falling seracs from the toe that you would normally expect, but the surface layers sliding off, which convinced us we'd made the right decision. Later on, while walking out we saw avalanches on the Birley too.

Oh well, maybe third time lucky.............
What is this "scientific method" you speak of?
User Avatar
dadndave
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 13507
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 12:21 am
Location: Independent Republic of North Beerwah
Thanked: 1122 times in 752 posts

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby ktnbs » Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:43 am

DnD,

I take it you are probably going to do a third attempt? I have taken a hiatus from NZ trips due to moves and $ issues but may be in a position to do so again this N.American winter.
User Avatar
ktnbs

 
Posts: 425
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 8:41 pm
Location: Bainbridge Island, Washington, United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby radson » Thu Apr 19, 2012 9:12 am

I also have unfinished business with Earnslaw. Looks like today would have been a nice day for an attempt.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=401922453165516&set=a.113361425354955.13346.113357552022009&type=1&theater
User Avatar
radson

 
Posts: 1935
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 11:34 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia
Thanked: 109 times in 76 posts

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby Mountain Bandit » Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:00 pm

No unfinished business but am always keen to climb a great mountain. If any of you Oz regulars are keen and planning a climb let us know. Am very keen (however my wife and first child on the way may have a different view - will deal with them when it comes) to get involved.

Cheers,
Paul
User Avatar
Mountain Bandit

 
Posts: 68
Joined: Fri Jun 12, 2009 4:50 am
Location: Australia
Thanked: 4 times in 4 posts

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby dadndave » Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:44 am

ktnbs wrote:DnD,

I take it you are probably going to do a third attempt? I have taken a hiatus from NZ trips due to moves and $ issues but may be in a position to do so again this N.American winter.


Yeah, I'm keen for a third attempt. Not sure when yet.

I've got a good weather watch link for Earnslaw on my work computer. I'll link it to this thread when I'm back at the office.
What is this "scientific method" you speak of?
User Avatar
dadndave
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 13507
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 12:21 am
Location: Independent Republic of North Beerwah
Thanked: 1122 times in 752 posts

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby dadndave » Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:16 am

...and here it is. You can surf around this site for other peaks, different conditions at various elevations etc etc.

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Earnslaw/forecasts/2830

Looks like things are cooling down over there.
What is this "scientific method" you speak of?
User Avatar
dadndave
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 13507
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 12:21 am
Location: Independent Republic of North Beerwah
Thanked: 1122 times in 752 posts

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby Bowers » Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:07 am

Hi Guys,
It's looking like I will be in NZ working for a couple of days from the 7th May. I am thinking of staying on for a week or so to do a trip. I am considering Earnslaw if it has not received too much early snow and of course if there is a decent weather window. Please feel free to get in contact if you are interested in joining me. I am also interested in the Remarkables traverse which looks great so I will have a rope and small rack with me.
Thanks for that forecast link DnD, really good.

Cheers
Nick
User Avatar
Bowers

 
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:57 am
Location: Sydney, Australia
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mt Earnslaw update - conditions

Postby Bowers » Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:14 am

Sorry Guys, connection went down so send was pushes more than once.

Cheers
User Avatar
Bowers

 
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:57 am
Location: Sydney, Australia
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post


Return to Oceania and Pacific Islands

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.