Yeti wrote:I'd recently read an account of two strong climbers that had been pinned down by wind at 14,000ft. One was tragically claimed by HACE while they waited out the winds. It stuck me as odd that they he had done so well over two strenuous days, only to have it hit suddenly while stationary and a somewhat mild altitude.
ExcitableBoy wrote:It takes 5 -7 days of yo-yoing to 14k and sleeping low to fully acclimatize to 14k. There are stories of scientists/climbers spending the night on the summit of Rainier and dying of altitude related illness because they did not take enough time to fully acclimatize. I think all the other factors are negligible compared to this simple fact.
Yeti wrote:Outrunning AMS sounds interesting, but also dangerous. With something like HACE, you won't know you've hit your wall until you're unable to function, and as good as dead without a significant effort from your mates... or a helicopter pilot.
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