I'm going to be in the Chamonix/Zermatt/Saas Fee area for three weeks in early August. I plan to do some hiking/climbing/via ferrata. I have some questions.

1. Can I eat in the Gouter/Tete Rousse hut if I'm not staying there?
2. Can I leave gear in the Gouter/Tete Rousse hut for a day or so if I'm not staying there?
3. Is climbing Dufourspitze solo reasonable?
4. Does anyone have ideas on a climb from Saas Fee to Zermatt (or vice versa) over the Mischabel group that is easy and safe? I would like to go from the Mischabel hut to the Dom hut (or vice versa), but am open to other ideas that may be easier/safer.

Thanks for your help!

1. Yep
2. No
3. No
4. Breithorn and Allalinhorn

About point 2 : the "huts" do not want to be held responsable for taking care of the gear you'd leave there for a day or two, but one may do so.

Is there a route from Saas Fee to Zermatt (or vice versa) that I can do solo safely without worrying about crevasses?
I just looked into the NE ridge of the Allalinhorn and I think it might be outside my comfort range.
I'm not intimately familiar with the area, but I plan to get up close with the Mischabel group on my trip, I'm just wondering if traveling across the Mischabel group is safe solo.

If not, I'm thinking about just renting crampons while in Chamonix so I won't have to carry them the entire trip.

Thanks again!

3. No

That one answers your new question 13ers. BTW, what's your mountain experience on Alpine 4000er

I've summited Mt. Hood. So I would say not very much. Thanks for your help.

13ers wrote:Is there a route from Saas Fee to Zermatt (or vice versa) that I can do solo safely without worrying about crevasses?
I just looked into the NE ridge of the Allalinhorn and I think it might be outside my comfort range.
I'm not intimately familiar with the area, but I plan to get up close with the Mischabel group on my trip, I'm just wondering if traveling across the Mischabel group is safe solo.

If not, I'm thinking about just renting crampons while in Chamonix so I won't have to carry them the entire trip.

Thanks again!

Hi 13ers, you may try the Weißmies (4061 m) via Allmageller hut. This is a glacier and crevasse free ascent from Saas Almagell to Almageller hut (overnight stay) and then to Zwischbergpass and the south ridge up to the summit. Back on the same route!

Nevertheless you need crampons, an ice axe and the ability to cope with exposed UIAA grade I terrain on the rock part of the south ridge at a hight from 3800 m up to 4000 m.

The only glacier and crevasse free trip in the Mischabel group I know is Balfrin (3795 m) and Groß Bigerhorn (3626 m) from Bordier hut. Start at Gasenried above Sankt Niklaus up to Bordierhut (overnight stay). Climb Groß Bigerhorn (talus ridge) and traverse to Balfrin north and south summit (snow and easy rocks, sometimes a bit airy).
All other Mischabel summits have glacier and / or difficult rock ascents.

Other glacier free trips are: Mettelhorn, Schöllihorn, Üssers and Inners Barrhorn (descriptions to be found on SP!).

For the high peaks go and rent a mountain guide!!

Happy peak bagging, Michael

BTW Domhutte is apparently closed for reconstruction this season.

Happy climbing

Sorry for the late reply, but I spent the past 8 days climbing the Kilimanjaro Lemosho route. Nice sunrise on the summit. I'm now in Chamonix gearing up for Mont Blanc. The OHM here is incredible. Thank you all so much for your advice!

Hello 13ers:

My advice is to hire a guide for peace of mind, in case of the unforeseen event. A recent example: 2 weeks ago I was climbing an "easy" 4000er, the Weissmies in the Saas Fee area. We started from the Hohsaas hut at 6 AM on the "normal " route (rated PD) with a local guide. Instead of following the well-trodden main path our guide took a detour on the right shoulder because on the main path there were remnants from a prior ice avalanche. As we were quietly ascending suddenly an ice serac broke off high above the main path and a fairly big ice avalanche came rumbling down. Fortunately for us, the guide had taken a detour to the right beforehand because he felt unease about the conditions. So that, besides the assault on our nerves and having to sprint right and left to avoid ice blocks that came our way at high speeds, we avoided the main avalanche which would have crushed us!

The risks involved in climbing in the western Alps in those kinds of unusual situations, and the more common hazards of storms, whiteouts when clouds engulf you, crevasses, etc can be minimized to some extent by using experienced local guides. My philosophy has always been to use guides whenever I embark on any glaciated terrain.

Lots of luck in your climbing pursuits, the areas that you will visit are spectacular.
JanG

I successfully soloed Mont Blanc yesterday. It was a gorgeous day. The Grand Couloir and Bosses Ridge were my favorites. I think I'm going to check out some of selinunte01's recommendations in the Saas Fee/Zermatt area. My next stop is the Mer de Glace. I'm thinking about running up to one of the huts in that area.