Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby ChristopherFranklin » Sat Jul 28, 2012 5:27 am

Hey everyone I'm new and looking for info on this route gear, nav, best spots to camp...thanks in advance.
User Avatar
ChristopherFranklin

 
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:44 am
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
Thanked: 4 times in 3 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby tadman » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:22 am

Great book by Peter Croft
Try
http://www.Whitneyportalstore.com
http://www.whitneyzone.com
Everything you are looking for can be found in those resources.
Have fun!

Tad
Last edited by tadman on Sun Jul 29, 2012 5:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
User Avatar
tadman

 
Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 9:20 pm
Location: redondo beach, California, United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:51 am

.

Camp at Iceberg Lake--one of the purtiest places in America


.
User Avatar
jesu, joy of man's desiring

 
Posts: 677
Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:54 pm
Thanked: 441 times in 328 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby ferdinandverboom » Sat Jul 28, 2012 12:18 pm

We did it in one day. Start at 4, back at 5 in the afternoon. MR up, normal route down. It was in june last year. There was a lot of snow, which made the descent quicker. We used ice axe, crampons, helmet.
Good luck, it's a beautiful route!
User Avatar
ferdinandverboom

 
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:33 pm
Location: Polsbroek, Utrecht, Netherlands
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby phydeux » Sat Jul 28, 2012 3:36 pm

ChristopherFranklin wrote:Hey everyone I'm new and looking for info on this route gear, nav, best spots to camp...thanks in advance.


Did you look on the Mt. Whitney page under "Mountains & Rocks"? Scroll up to the top where the summitpost logo is, then look at the blue bar beneath it. Scroll over where it says "Mountains & Rocks", click on it, then enter "Whitney" in the search box. A table will come up and you should find Mt. Whiteny on it. Click open that page and the "Routes" list will be in the column on the left. The Mt. Whitney page itself will have info on getting access to the area.
User Avatar
phydeux

 
Posts: 967
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:39 pm
Location: Somewhere, USA, United States
Thanked: 178 times in 120 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Sat Jul 28, 2012 5:59 pm

Permits are an issue. It will be easier to get a permit if you try it from Shepherd's Pass and come in to Whitney from the west. Bighorn plateau has the best panorama in the High Sierra.
User Avatar
Sierra Ledge Rat

 
Posts: 1106
Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Appalachia, United States
Thanked: 239 times in 156 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby Alpinist » Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:53 pm

Be careful. The MR is not difficult when the conditions are good but it can be treacherous when icey. There's a fatality every 4-5 years up there.

Also, take time to acclimatize. You'll suffer less for it.
User Avatar
Alpinist

 
Posts: 5999
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2003 7:21 pm
Location: Kildeer, Illinois, United States
Thanked: 633 times in 430 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby ChristopherFranklin » Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:09 pm

Thanks for the info everyone! Are ropes nessesary? Also I'm a little confused on the permits I understand it's done online now. It do you still need to submit for 2013 in February?
User Avatar
ChristopherFranklin

 
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:44 am
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
Thanked: 4 times in 3 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby schaffner » Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:46 pm

Hi Christopher,

To answer your questions it would be useful to know when you want to go and what your experience is with stuff like that.

Assuming that you want to go now, then I would say, based on when we descended it a few weeks ago after climbing the East Buttress:

There is no snow whatsoever on the upper 2/3 of route and below that snow can be avoided, if there even is snow. That also means you will climb on sand, scree and other unpleasant stuff which you can kick down or might be kicked down onto you. The route is a lot more pleasant when we did it in snow conditions last year.
schaffner

 
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:48 am
Location: Stanford, California, United States
Thanked: 9 times in 5 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby ChristopherFranklin » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:34 pm

I was planning on doing it next July but it sounds like some snow would make it easier going. I've climbed Arizona's tallest. I have zero experience with crampons and axe however I do have experience rock climbing. So I guess I'll shoot for May and get comfortable on crampons this winter. What about the permits the walk through on this site is kinda confusing on the subject of permits.
User Avatar
ChristopherFranklin

 
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:44 am
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
Thanked: 4 times in 3 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby schaffner » Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:58 pm

You can get permits on recreation.gov. The most commonly used trailhead for this route is North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. For these, there is no lottery, you just need to be fast in booking when they become available. If that fails you can try to get a walk-in permit at the ranger station.

Many people would consider going before May, if weather and avalanche conditions are good, since no permits are needed then.
schaffner

 
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:48 am
Location: Stanford, California, United States
Thanked: 9 times in 5 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby Ulu » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:06 pm

ChristopherFranklin wrote:Thanks for the info everyone! Are ropes nessesary? Also I'm a little confused on the permits I understand it's done online now. It do you still need to submit for 2013 in February?


You are confusing the lottery with the wilderness permit. The mr is not on the lottery, and you can actually show up the prior day to get a permit for the next day if you'd like. I would highly suggest doing it as a day hike, as it's a real pia bringing overnight gear on that trail. Also, no ropes are needed unless there is a ton of snow, which isn't likely at the time of year you are going. You may need an ice axe/crampons for the culoir, however.
Ulu

 
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2012 6:58 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby Kahuna » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:15 pm

The MR via the NF Lone Pine Creek Trail, is within the Whitney Region Lottery Program.

But, if a "No Show" exists after 2pm the day prior, you can attain the slot/s at no cost at the Lone Pine/Whitney Ranger Station Visitor Center.

There currently is no snow to speak of in either the main, first chute after the notch nor on any portion of the NF slope.


PS: I do not know what I am talking about. I just guide the route on a regular basis. Off on another gig up the MR this weekend.
Kahuna

 
Posts: 396
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:43 am
Thanked: 153 times in 105 posts

The following user would like to thank Kahuna for this post
jareds

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby schaffner » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:25 pm

The MR via the NF Lone Pine Creek Trail, is within the Whitney Region Lottery Program.


Depends. Day-use is lottery, overnight is not.
schaffner

 
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:48 am
Location: Stanford, California, United States
Thanked: 9 times in 5 posts

Re: Mount Whitney mountaineer's route

Postby Kahuna » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:42 pm

Over night access to any portion of the Whitney Region requires a standard Whitney Access permit.

NFLP area is a portion of the Lottery, regardless of day or over night. From the first week of May through the last week of Sept.

Again, I work directly with the Whitney Permit Administrator on a daily basis and just confirmed this fact.
Kahuna

 
Posts: 396
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:43 am
Thanked: 153 times in 105 posts

Next

Return to California

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.