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Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditions?

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Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditions?

Postby clmbr » Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:38 pm

1) I wonder how Adams Glacier looks now. Is it snow or ice and how long this year the route might be passable? Is Killen Creek TH accessible from north and south sides?

2) How are Kautz Glacier and Fuhrer Finger routes? How long this year they might be approachable/passable? Shasta looses snow quickly, but based on the pics Rainier still has a lot of snow coverage.

Thanks for any input.
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Re: Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditi

Postby j4ever » Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:25 am

i was wondering about the Kautz too,i will be there in about 2 weeks
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Re: Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditi

Postby splattski » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:43 am

We did Kautz last week. The Fan is full of rock, so we accessed via the Wilson. There is running water at the top of the Turtle, just below the fixed line onto the Kautz. The ice chute has two sections of ice, the taller being about 30m. Take two tools and a few screws, and plan on setting anchors for rappelling.
Trip report:
http://www.splattski.com/2012/celebration/index.html

Fuhrer Finger looked like too many rocks for my taste.

And for comparison, we did the Kautz last year in August and there wasn't any ice showing. Trip report:
http://www.splattski.com/2011/celebration/index.html
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Re: Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditi

Postby AlexeyD » Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:24 pm

splattski wrote:just below the fixed line onto the Kautz.


Whoa! Since when is that there?
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Re: Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditi

Postby clmbr » Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:57 pm

A very nice trip and a nicely written report, thanks a lot. It looks like the rock gets exposed in many places. But at the same time Kautz glacier itself does not (really) seem to be broken up. As of the steep icy section, it never looks impressive (steep) on pictures. This is, however, one of my favorite (most exciting) places on this route.

BTW, one time on the way up the ice chute was clear and on the way down full of debris from the ice cliff. One other time, while climbing across icy spot I got hit by a rock bigger than my head. Fortunately, it just skimmed my left cheek and most impact was taken by my collar bone, which was protected by multilayer clothing and the bag back strap. You really need to watch that place. One other time I even camped at Camp Hazard (with my helmet on), just for the experience. That was a very noisy and scary night. The disposal barrels were still there.

Anyway, the time is running out and I have to hurry if I want to climb it safely still this year.

AlexeyD wrote:
splattski wrote:just below the fixed line onto the Kautz.


Whoa! Since when is that there?

...quite a long time. You may not see it (fixed rope) early in the season though.
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Re: Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditi

Postby AlexeyD » Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:34 pm

clmbr wrote:BTW, one time on the way up the ice chute was clear and on the way down full of debris from the ice cliff. One other time, while climbing across icy spot I got hit by a rock bigger than my head. Fortunately, it just skimmed my left cheek and most impact was taken by my collar bone, which was protected by multilayer clothing and the bag back strap. You really need to watch that place.


Yeah, I had a similar experience there, except with falling ice, and lots of it...in my case nothing actually hit me, but came damn close, and it was going on for a while! Later that same day, back at camp around 10,500' on the Turtle Snowfield, we heard a huge boom from the direction of the ice climb, followed several minutes later by the faint sound of icy mist hitting the tent wells - all of this happening AT MIDNIGHT! I don't recall it being above freezing, either. Fixed line or not, don't think I'll ever be going back to that place again...too many close calls and bad memories.
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Re: Adams Glacier and Kautz Glacier / Fuhrer Finger conditi

Postby clmbr » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:01 pm

AlexeyD wrote:. . .
...too many close calls and bad memories.

That's true, at least I have.

The common mistake some people make is taking this route to avoid standard route traffic; it's only grade II/III, right?. I've met there people like these. In fact you may be even alone on this route. Up to camp Hazard (11,300) the route is relatively simple but its excitement may change quickly after that point; and if it happens you may gain a lot of valuable experience in still relatively "safe" environment. That's why I like it and keep comming back. Every time I climb it I face different conditions and challenges. Sometimes it is smooth and easy, some other times, well... as you said.
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