I am still hunting fur a day of fun in early fall. I am thinking about Mount Abbot via the North Couloir.
Any recent trips or pics? Any advice...Pro/Con

Many thanks!

Tad

Many thanks.
In the running...

North Peak Traverse
Tenaya Peak
Right Couloir, North Peak
Fun in the sun at Iris Slabs
The couloir that runs along the Petit Griffon.
Any thoughts?


Drive up from Redondo Beach, (camp fire)
Early start for a climb
Camp with ice cold beer and yet another camp fire
Home with a stop at the hot springs then a jump in the Pacific

Tad

Hi Tad,

Just caught up to your post. I made an attempt on Mt. Abbott in late June but turned back at the knife-edge ridge due to high winds and time of day. I think we went up 3Deserts footsteps in decent (soft) snow conditions, no crampons needed (but had them and ice axe, too). Nice glissade out into the bowl before the sun set and turned it to ice.

I don't have a TR up yet but you can look at the pics here on Photobucket.

http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm26 ... =slideshow

Anyway, I'd like to have another go before the end of the year but I'm booked for a few weeks, till after Labor Day.

I'm in Huntington Beach and your plan for a weekend blast, campfires and beer sound awesome.

Could meet up for a SoCal climb, too... Iron Mountain for practice?

MK

3Deserts,

No need to apologize, that set of steps made what we were doing seem a little less scary ("See? Someone else is this crazy?").

There were only a couple of things I'd do differently from that day, simply starting earlier could've helped for a successful summit. The approach is further than it looks from the first "level up" above Ruby Lake. I was also not mentally prepared for the wind and exposure combined when we reached the knife-edge, even though the exposure is what I went for and we had walked into the wind the whole way up until the final snowfield.

We could hear the jet-like roar of the wind blast several meters below the ridge though we were climbing in eerily calm conditions...until we got to the ridge!

With tricky routefinding ahead and the wind making it difficult to even stand up, we started thinking about that awesome glissade from high up in the couloir!

Now, I want to try again. Tad? What about you 3Des?

MK

Mt Abbot seems to throw a change up with ea attempt made, a very satisfying summit when completed.

Mt Abbot has been on my list for a while. A few years ago I also turned around at the top of the ridge due to time constraints.

MK - nice pics - If you are looking to get back up there and need a partner I'm interested. After Sept 7th I'm available.

See what you did, tadman? Got everybody worked up to go climb Mt. Abbott, LOL!

I'm game, as I said, and so is jonclimbingon... hope you can have fun and be safe up there either way.

Jon, I sent you a PM and will try to email you.

MK

PS. Sorry for the thread hijack, tadman, I love forums.