The Japanese threw a bag of shit at you? Would pay to see it.

Turned around above 20k on Aco. Storm killed five! Ego gets you hurt or...

I don't see why it is such a big deal to turn around. If weather sucks for summit bid (while on a major expedition) just wait for a better window. Bring enough food and stay in high camp til you get the window...
Climbing into storms is reckless to say the least.

The Japanese threw a bag of shit at you?

No VM.

Go get on the Dihedral Wall VM (you do know where that is right?), spend the night at or below the P6 anchor, look up and see what is located directly above you some 1000', you will then understand what happened.


Never mind VM. I have to remind myself of the source when trying to explain such things....

Yea Dihedral wall looks fun. Maybe next year if I pull on gear more often and buy a ledge. Walls take a lot of time and dedication with partners. My usual partners do not have flexible schedules, and climbing with new people is not as enjoyable as with friends for me.

Vitaliy M. wrote: Walls take a lot of time and dedication with partners. My usual partners do not have flexible schedules, and climbing with new people is not as enjoyable as with friends for me.

Excuses, excuses....

If you really had a pair, you'd get on it solo. I thought you said you were a Wall Monkey?

Guess not.

A5RP wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote: Walls take a lot of time and dedication with partners. My usual partners do not have flexible schedules, and climbing with new people is not as enjoyable as with friends for me.

Excuses, excuses....

If you really had a pair, you'd get on it solo. I thought you said you were a Wall Monkey?

Guess not.

Never said I was a wall monkey. If I had a pair I would get on it solo? hahaha. Who the hell would I yell at? Walls are stressful. On the other hand, if you had a pair, you would do it in a push. 1L of water and 40 GU packets. Only if you had a pair though.
Seriously though, I am not much of a wall climber. So far done 2 grade Vs. Goldline and Lost Arrow Spire Direct. Liked LASD a lot, so maybe will do a few more walls and see how much I like it, or not.
At the moment I am super happy with freeing Beckey Chouinard on South Howser tower in 18 hours Applebee to Applebee camp while splitting leads. This was a climb I desired to do the most for the last year or so. Did 6 other alpine routes on the trip as well, but none like B-C.

Vitaliy M. wrote:Never said I was a wall monkey. If I had a pair I would get on it solo? hahaha. Who the hell would I yell at? Walls are stressful. On the other hand, if you had a pair, you would do it in a push. 1L of water and 40 GU packets. Only if you had a pair though.
Seriously though, I am not much of a wall climber. So far done 2 grade Vs. Goldline and Lost Arrow Spire Direct. Liked LASD a lot, so maybe will do a few more walls and see how much I like it, or not.
At the moment I am super happy with freeing Beckey Chouinard on South Howser tower in 18 hours Applebee to Applebee camp while splitting leads. This was a climb I desired to do the most for the last year or so. Did 6 other alpine routes on the trip as well, but none like B-C.

You're a disgrace.

On original topic - couple guys set a slackline up between the N/S summits on Matthes a couple weeks ago, thunder and darkness all around but not on top of them. We didn't stick around to see the show.

Back to subject at hand. I'm not a climber, nor do I play one on TV. Reprise from SP several years back.
http://hwstock.org/mumhard9/

A rare day, when gong on was safer than a retreat.