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Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

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Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Anne10 » Mon Aug 27, 2012 1:18 am

I recently found myself with the time and ability to go anywhere in the world and spend a season learning mountaineering/climbing. Any suggestions or ideas on where to go and what to do?

I made the leap from backpacking to mountaineering a couple of seasons ago through courses with the Mazamas and the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in India. I have climbed some of the popular peaks in Oregon and Washington and have spent a couple of months trekking at altitude in Nepal. I'd like to plug into some type of climbing organization, company, group of climbers, school, volunteer, or internship program for part of a year and focus solely on learning solid climbing skills. I've spent a good amount of time in areas all around South America, Europe, and Asia and I'm considering a good portion of the world as open territory for this mountaineering quest (also speak Spanish/basic Hindi).

Specific suggestions for the best way to make the most of this opportunity to build mountaineering skills with a solid few months to devote solely to the endeavor??

Thanks!!
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Steve1215 » Mon Aug 27, 2012 2:03 am

Anne10 wrote:I recently found myself with the time and ability to go anywhere in the world and spend a season learning mountaineering/climbing. Any suggestions or ideas on where to go and what to do?

I'd like to plug into some type of climbing organization, company, group of climbers, school, volunteer, or internship program for part of a year and focus solely on learning solid climbing skills.

Specific suggestions for the best way to make the most of this opportunity to build mountaineering skills with a solid few months to devote solely to the endeavor??

Thanks!!



if you have time and $$$$ maybe the Canadian Rockies. I'd trust the guides there way more than the guides in the Alps. Then again, they don't have grizzly bears in Switzerland. August is the driest month in the Canadian Rockies, but this winter would be great for accessible ice climbing. Like they say, if you can succeed in the Canadian Rockies, then you can climb anywhere.

Canmore would be a beautiful place to stay for half a year.

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Anne10

Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Ben Beckerich » Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:27 am

Much too jealous to offer suggestions.

Good luck! ;-)
where am i going... and why am i in this handbasket?
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby lcarreau » Mon Aug 27, 2012 3:38 am

I'm a married man .... how could I devote months to ... ANYTHING ..... :?: ?

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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby CanadaHiker » Mon Aug 27, 2012 4:05 am

What's your budget?
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Anne10 » Mon Aug 27, 2012 7:28 pm

CanadaHiker wrote:What's your budget?


Probably midrange. I can live cheaply for a few months and simply climb and pay for a few classes too. I'd prefer linking up with an organization/company/mentors/school or formal volunteer/internship program.
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Deleted User » Mon Aug 27, 2012 8:18 pm

Consider relocating to Slovenia. If you live here, the alpinistic schools are almost for free, and in the beginning the association helps out with specific gear. It's not a joke. If you are dedicated you can pick up a lot. All Slovene alpinists went through these schools. A more recent reference might be Steve House who dedicates a chapter of his book to the Slovene alpinism school.
Classes (and outings) usually start in autumn, or in the spring time.

Takes more than a few months, though.
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Anne10 » Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:29 am

borutbk wrote:Consider relocating to Slovenia. If you live here, the alpinistic schools are almost for free, and in the beginning the association helps out with specific gear. It's not a joke. If you are dedicated you can pick up a lot. All Slovene alpinists went through these schools. A more recent reference might be Steve House who dedicates a chapter of his book to the Slovene alpinism school.
Classes (and outings) usually start in autumn, or in the spring time.

Takes more than a few months, though.


Wow, I'd love to learn more. I'm getting the Steve House book from the library. Do you have any websites or ways to look up more information about the schools?
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Deleted User » Tue Aug 28, 2012 7:07 am

Sure, I'll look into it, and find the programs. Finding something in English will be difficult and maybe I'll have to do some translation. Give me 2, 3 days, and I'll be back.

Here is an example :
http://www.aozeleznicar.org/index.php/a ... la/program

Edit.
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Deleted User » Tue Aug 28, 2012 11:19 am

From October to June, students receive theoretical and practical schooling. After this study year (theory and praxis, see below), you get to be a trainee. Trainees will be taken on tours (for free), and depending on their capacities, trainees may even start mountain climbing on their own. Trainees then need to perform a certain amount of climbs before being able to go to the state exam for the title: alpinist. Depending on your devotion, things can get going quite soon, or one stays a trainee all life long... In your case, just doing the first (study) year would bring you a lot of knowledge and experiences. The price for this one year program is between 200 and 300 euros (some clubs are more expensive, though).

Here's a quick translation of the program (October to June), from the link in my former post :

Theoretical part of alpinism school :
Introductory lecture with slides
Technical equipment, clothing, footwear
Knots
Hazards in the mountains
Summer climbing technique
First Aid I
First Aid II
Preparation and execution of tours
Terminology
Route description and grades
Meteorology
Orientation
Snow and ice climbing technique
Backcountry skiing and mountaineering
Bivouac and camping
Nutrition
Knowledge of mountains and nature protection
SAR
History of alpinism
Training and sport climbing
Alpinism and culture
Examination - theory
Examination - theory - 2nd session and corrective


Practical part of alpinism school :
Off route + reception
Summer climbing technique (crag)
Summer climbing technique (anchors)
Free climbing
Ice climbing technique
Winter climbing technique and gully climbing
Ski touring
Summer climbing technique (rope technique)
Summer climbing technique (rope technique) repeat
Exam - practical
Exam - practical part - 2nd session and corrective
Climbing in the mountains
Glacier course

EDIT : There are many of these schools (all under State / Alpine Associations Union control). Try making a google search by copy-pasting : alpinistični odsek
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Deleted User » Tue Aug 28, 2012 12:44 pm

It goes more or less like this: one evening a week you go to the theoretical class, usually wednesday or thursday. One evening a week you can choose to add training on an indoor wall. All week ends are for climbing/mountaineering. The rest of the time is personal, which means f.i. repeating the pulley systems you want be able to use for rescuing, and there are crags, walls, hills, trails, summer and winter, etc., everywhere in Slovenia, so you don't get bored.

BTW, alpine association membership and insurance is included in the price. The membership gives reduced overnight costs in all mountain huts (at least in the European Alps). SAR is not billed in Europe.

For a start, you need shoes and a harness. A helmet looks serious, but actually some kids come with nothing. Under 18, you need the parents' authorization.
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Re: Months to devote to mountaineering...in search of ideas

Postby Anne10 » Thu Aug 30, 2012 5:27 pm

Thanks for looking that up and translating! This gives me a start on some research.
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