As is the norm, you are making out climbing, skiing, whatever out to be a bigger drama experience than it really is. Stay light, fast, knowledgeable and efficient and you won't get caught without food for days on end. Never heard of a real climber or professional in any of the disciplines, alpine, ice, rock, paddling, you name it, worried about keeping a certain amount of fat on him/her to be prepared for going without food. You do entertain me.

Agree with Dow. I normally sit around 5% body fat all my life, and even in those situations where I couldn't eat for a couple of days it hasn't been a biggie.

I wouldn't be obsessive about your weight. Train, eat healthy and go out climbing, and the weight should take care of it self.

Stef do you have a pear-shaped physique?

I'm lean (6' and 155lbs) and I find no need to gain weight/fat. The only downside is that I'm cold all the time.

This topic sounds a bit obsessive over exact percentages.
This topic is making me want a bowl of ice cream right now.
Or perhaps tomorrow a epic climb.

yo chill out with your eating disorder and train as hard/smart as you can, prepare well, and all will be good

If you are really at or under 5 % (unlikely), the hormonal effect will have a negative impact on your performance. Or you are taking some good drugs, and will be okay.

Ze wrote:If you are really at or under 5 % (unlikely), the hormonal effect will have a negative impact on your performance. Or you are taking some good drugs, and will be okay.

The lower boundry where hormonal disruptions is really dictated by gender and genetics. Men can get by with less then women. Some men may have negative affects at higher body fat concentrations then ohers.

Myself, I have had about 5% bodyfat for almost my entire life ( see profile picture if you on't believe it, which was taken after a 6 week layoff due to knee injury which was a result o an impact injury). In gener al Idon't get sick, injuried or cold or other telltale symptoms of being underweight.not recommending hat level to anyone. And with multiple test metrics its always come back the same. My advise is forget about weight, body fat,.... And just go out and train and climb, and have fun.

I'd guess 8%. Have you had a DEXA scan to estimate it? Other methods are are quite error-prone. Hydrostatic weighing isn't bad.

Regardless, I agree that that genetics and gender play a role. But the fact that only a very small % of males can get to 5% bodyfat, "unassisted", and be in a good hormonal state. 7-8% is more common for those with the good genes. But like you said, the OP doesn't have to worry about the number, just that they feel good at that weight.

However, multiday expeditions, without tight control of nutrition at such low levels of bodyfat %, a person is going to be prone to breaking down a lot of muscle / protein than at a higher bodyfat level. Which of course is not good.

As Don Whillans tells it:
"During the approach march of one expedition an Indian boy asked if the group were mountain climbers. "Aye", said Don to the boy who carefully studied Whillans. "But are you not too fat to be a mountain climber", the boy said. Don turned his head and stared icily at the boy "Perhaps I am too fat, but by the end of this expedition I'll be skinny and they'll be non-existent."